Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 2/13/15
Page Views: 544 total · 7/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 24, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the finest route yet completed on the formation, and offers the best stretch of clean free climbing I've encountered in the VOG.

P1-Shares the first pitch with Dirty Thirty. Refer to that route for a description. (5.9+, 70)

P2-Traverse way left (south) on the large ledge, rounding the corner onto the south face proper and over to the base of a striking, right-facing dihedral. A short choss band can be scrambled through, and a belay off of a couple of finger sized cams can be made on the comfortable ledge immediately beneath the corner. Bust the technical crux right off of the ledge with a hard pull over a small roof on green camalot sized crack. The crack quickly widens to tight hands, but stays steep as it progresses through perfect hands and onto a long stretch of fists; this is the endurance crux. The corner rolls over onto slabbier terrain, and continues widening into OW, but is easier due to the angle. The lower corner is very clean and splitter for the VOG, but the upper corner has enough soft rock and loose bits to remind you that you're not in the Creek. End on a small stance on the left side of the crack at a chain/cold shut anchor.

From the anchor, 20' of easy 5th class choss leads to the window/notch in the easternmost summit tower (Point Iris). Once through the notch, belay off of gear or possibly continue to the summit if rope drag allows.

Location

The 1st pitch is on the right (north) end of the east face. Traverse the large intermediate ledge to the south face for the 2nd pitch.

Refer to the description of Dirty Thirty for summit options and descent.

Protection

(2x) assorted finger pieces for belay (2x) #.75-#2 (3x) #3, #4 (1x) #5, old #5 BD camalots, chain/cold shut anchor.

Photos