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Routes in The Putterman Residence
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Demise of the Roaring Twenties T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Thirty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Three Decades Down T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 2/13/15 |
| Page Views: | 544 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Feb 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This is the finest route yet completed on the formation, and offers the best stretch of clean free climbing I've encountered in the VOG.
P1-Shares the first pitch with Dirty Thirty. Refer to that route for a description. (5.9+, 70)
P2-Traverse way left (south) on the large ledge, rounding the corner onto the south face proper and over to the base of a striking, right-facing dihedral. A short choss band can be scrambled through, and a belay off of a couple of finger sized cams can be made on the comfortable ledge immediately beneath the corner. Bust the technical crux right off of the ledge with a hard pull over a small roof on green camalot sized crack. The crack quickly widens to tight hands, but stays steep as it progresses through perfect hands and onto a long stretch of fists; this is the endurance crux. The corner rolls over onto slabbier terrain, and continues widening into OW, but is easier due to the angle. The lower corner is very clean and splitter for the VOG, but the upper corner has enough soft rock and loose bits to remind you that you're not in the Creek. End on a small stance on the left side of the crack at a chain/cold shut anchor.
From the anchor, 20' of easy 5th class choss leads to the window/notch in the easternmost summit tower (Point Iris). Once through the notch, belay off of gear or possibly continue to the summit if rope drag allows.
P1-Shares the first pitch with Dirty Thirty. Refer to that route for a description. (5.9+, 70)
P2-Traverse way left (south) on the large ledge, rounding the corner onto the south face proper and over to the base of a striking, right-facing dihedral. A short choss band can be scrambled through, and a belay off of a couple of finger sized cams can be made on the comfortable ledge immediately beneath the corner. Bust the technical crux right off of the ledge with a hard pull over a small roof on green camalot sized crack. The crack quickly widens to tight hands, but stays steep as it progresses through perfect hands and onto a long stretch of fists; this is the endurance crux. The corner rolls over onto slabbier terrain, and continues widening into OW, but is easier due to the angle. The lower corner is very clean and splitter for the VOG, but the upper corner has enough soft rock and loose bits to remind you that you're not in the Creek. End on a small stance on the left side of the crack at a chain/cold shut anchor.
From the anchor, 20' of easy 5th class choss leads to the window/notch in the easternmost summit tower (Point Iris). Once through the notch, belay off of gear or possibly continue to the summit if rope drag allows.
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