Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Putterman Residence

Demise of the Roaring Twenties T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Thirty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Three Decades Down T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 2/13/15
Page Views: 230 total · 7/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 24, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is the finest route yet completed on the formation, and offers the best stretch of clean free climbing I've encountered in the VOG.

P1-Shares the first pitch with Dirty Thirty. Refer to that route for a description. (5.9+, 70)

P2-Traverse way left (south) on the large ledge, rounding the corner onto the south face proper and over to the base of a striking, right-facing dihedral. A short choss band can be scrambled through, and a belay off of a couple of finger sized cams can be made on the comfortable ledge immediately beneath the corner. Bust the technical crux right off of the ledge with a hard pull over a small roof on green camalot sized crack. The crack quickly widens to tight hands, but stays steep as it progresses through perfect hands and onto a long stretch of fists; this is the endurance crux. The corner rolls over onto slabbier terrain, and continues widening into OW, but is easier due to the angle. The lower corner is very clean and splitter for the VOG, but the upper corner has enough soft rock and loose bits to remind you that you're not in the Creek. End on a small stance on the left side of the crack at a chain/cold shut anchor.

From the anchor, 20' of easy 5th class choss leads to the window/notch in the easternmost summit tower (Point Iris). Once through the notch, belay off of gear or possibly continue to the summit if rope drag allows.

Location

The 1st pitch is on the right (north) end of the east face. Traverse the large intermediate ledge to the south face for the 2nd pitch.

Refer to the description of Dirty Thirty for summit options and descent.

Protection

(2x) assorted finger pieces for belay (2x) #.75-#2 (3x) #3, #4 (1x) #5, old #5 BD camalots, chain/cold shut anchor.

Photos

Maybe...but the views and camping and lack of crowds all make the VOG one of the best crags ever! Feb 24, 2015
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Ha, yeah the Barricade Wall routes look quality for sure! I'll stand by my claim of "best stretch of clean free climbing I've yet encountered" on any of the towers/buttes however. We've come to discover that there is worthwhile free climbing to be done out here, it's just a matter of skirting the choss bands wherever possible. It's obviously still a far cry from Castle Valley or the like, as I'm sure you remember! Feb 24, 2015
Best stone? Hum...try Naked Ladies on the Barricade Wall...good work! Thanks again! Feb 24, 2015