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Demise of the Roaring Twenties
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Putterman Residence
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Demise of the Roaring Twenties T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Thirty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Three Decades Down T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 2/12/15 |
| Page Views: | 66 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Feb 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Another fine free option on the east face of the Residence, this one serves up some nice splitter action on good stone.
P1- The same first pitch as Dirty Thirty to the ledge. See that route for description. (5.9+, 70')
P2- Walk left (south) on the large ledge to the left side of the east face where a right-leaning diagonal splitter will be obvious. The crack starts as a tight handcrack with flakes for feet out right, and widens to fists in a flare. Commit to a cruxy layback around the OW ear flake and finish up a strenuous OW on softer rock. Belay on a large ledge; I slung a large block for the belay. (5.11-, 70')
Scramble up to the base of the summit towers and bag any of the summits. Refer to the description of Dirty Thirty for more details about these summits and the descent directions.
P1- The same first pitch as Dirty Thirty to the ledge. See that route for description. (5.9+, 70')
P2- Walk left (south) on the large ledge to the left side of the east face where a right-leaning diagonal splitter will be obvious. The crack starts as a tight handcrack with flakes for feet out right, and widens to fists in a flare. Commit to a cruxy layback around the OW ear flake and finish up a strenuous OW on softer rock. Belay on a large ledge; I slung a large block for the belay. (5.11-, 70')
Scramble up to the base of the summit towers and bag any of the summits. Refer to the description of Dirty Thirty for more details about these summits and the descent directions.
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