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Dirty Thirty [Suggest Change]
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Putterman Residence
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Demise of the Roaring Twenties T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Thirty T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Original Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Three Decades Down T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 2/12/15 |
| Page Views: | 84 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Feb 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
A decent line with mostly solid rock and varied climbing. This tackles the right-hand (northern) system on the east face (the face above the loop road) in two short steps separated by a large ledge.
P1-- We took the easiest and cleanest looking line through the lower band that rings the butte. Start at the far right (north) end of the east face in a shallow alcove with an OW crack. This is pretty much the only crack through this lower band on the east face that doesn't entail an overhanging choss start. Face climb for 15' (#1 or #2 Camalot slot for pro) through the loose lower band to a shelf. Launch up the OW above which progressively widens into a very tight squeeze. This proved more difficult than it looked as it's pretty steep and a bad size, but the rock and pro are good. The squeeze ends at another shelf, above which an easier chimney takes you to the large ledge above. There are two cold shuts for a rap anchor about 10' left (south) of the chimney, but it may be best to build a gear anchor in good cracks a ways back on the ledge. (5.9+, 70')
P2-- Walk up and left (south) on the ledge a bit to a right-facing dihedral of nice dark rock. The corner starts with a steep tight handcrack in a tricky flare which turns into an easier handcrack ending at a stance. Finish up an OW crack on softer rock to a good belay ledge with two bolts (no chains, not a rap anchor). (5.10, 70')
From the ledge atop P2 downclimb a short chimney to the west into a larger chimney/slot which can be scrambled up to the base of the various summits. Any and all summits can be attained via short (40-50'), chossy, easy-mid 5th class rambles. The westernmost and lowest summit (Point Talia) doesn't have an anchor, but the other three all have double 3/8" bolts or drilled angles with tat. We replaced the tat on a couple of these, but bring extra webbing.
Scramble back down slabs and short slots to the large ledge atop pitch 1 and rap off of the double cold shuts.
P1-- We took the easiest and cleanest looking line through the lower band that rings the butte. Start at the far right (north) end of the east face in a shallow alcove with an OW crack. This is pretty much the only crack through this lower band on the east face that doesn't entail an overhanging choss start. Face climb for 15' (#1 or #2 Camalot slot for pro) through the loose lower band to a shelf. Launch up the OW above which progressively widens into a very tight squeeze. This proved more difficult than it looked as it's pretty steep and a bad size, but the rock and pro are good. The squeeze ends at another shelf, above which an easier chimney takes you to the large ledge above. There are two cold shuts for a rap anchor about 10' left (south) of the chimney, but it may be best to build a gear anchor in good cracks a ways back on the ledge. (5.9+, 70')
P2-- Walk up and left (south) on the ledge a bit to a right-facing dihedral of nice dark rock. The corner starts with a steep tight handcrack in a tricky flare which turns into an easier handcrack ending at a stance. Finish up an OW crack on softer rock to a good belay ledge with two bolts (no chains, not a rap anchor). (5.10, 70')
From the ledge atop P2 downclimb a short chimney to the west into a larger chimney/slot which can be scrambled up to the base of the various summits. Any and all summits can be attained via short (40-50'), chossy, easy-mid 5th class rambles. The westernmost and lowest summit (Point Talia) doesn't have an anchor, but the other three all have double 3/8" bolts or drilled angles with tat. We replaced the tat on a couple of these, but bring extra webbing.
Scramble back down slabs and short slots to the large ledge atop pitch 1 and rap off of the double cold shuts.
Protection [Suggest Change]
P1--(1x) #1,#2,#4,#5 (2x) #6 BD C4 sizes and hand sized for anchor.
P2--(2x) #1, #2, #3 (1x) #4, #5, #6 BD C4 sizes, two bolt anchor.
P2--(2x) #1, #2, #3 (1x) #4, #5, #6 BD C4 sizes, two bolt anchor.
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