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Routes in Main Wall

Archer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
B. T. Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle Axe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crawford's Face S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cream Puff, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crepes Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Desiderata T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Earn Your Wings TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fear of Flying T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Fluted Crust T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hands Masseuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Jammer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Iotolla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jewel of the Nile S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Knob Hill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mad Wife T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miller's Highlife T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Blood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Doubt Stout T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pie Face Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Poly Grip S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Road House Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saw, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shelob's Lair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slot, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
True Grip T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walk Like an Egyptian T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wipe Out T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zig Zag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zig Zag Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Bill Crawford, M. Francsechini, Dan Dvorak, Rick Jamieson 1973
Page Views: 921 total · 20/month
Shared By: DJ Reyes on Feb 21, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the left side of the prominent large roof of Sugar Daddy

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
  5.5
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
  5.5
Nice route with a lots of interesting moves including a little bushwacking. To me some of the moves below the roof seemed harder than 5.5. Turning the left side of the roof is pretty fun and totally solid. Feb 21, 2015
Croman  
I would agree with DJ, maybe 5.6, and a bit runout above the roof (tri cam would work well for the left slanting seam above the roof). Good route overall. Nov 21, 2015
Melissa Thaw
Livermore, CA & South Lake…
5.6
Melissa Thaw   Livermore, CA & South Lake…
5.6
I agree - harder than 5.5. Oct 10, 2016
Melissa Thaw
Livermore, CA & South Lake…
5.6
Melissa Thaw   Livermore, CA & South Lake…
5.6
Looks like someone added a new bolt to this route. (or else a new route crosses over the saw ???) Oct 26, 2016
David Engel
Santa Rosa, CA
David Engel   Santa Rosa, CA
The first 20 feet of this route is much harder than a 5.5. A 5.8 rating for the sustained and slightly overhanging start is reasonable. This section is well protected.

There are two half inch diameter bolts under the roof. There are some additional bolts on the previously unprotected section above the overhang. There are two bolts with rings for rappeling that can only be reached by leading as the are not quite at the top. Near the top if you move right so that the overhang is directly below you, there are two 1/2 diameter bolts and links next to a bush. A 60 meter rope will reach the ground from these bolts. However, we had some problems doing the pull down. From these two bolts, you can squeeze through a tree, under a rock and walk to the bottom.

It's also possible to traverse right under the overhang to a 1/2 bolt just to the right of the overhang, then straight up a thin corner in a right facing dihedral, exit the dihedral and face climb to the bush and rock 1/2 anchor mentioned above. You will pass two bolts on this route above the dihedral. It's about 50 feet from the base of the overhang to the top bolts. We pioneered a new route using the start of the Arch route, we exit the arch about 2/3rds of the way up the left leaning arch. We then face climbed to the right corner of the overhang, up the dihedral and face climbed to the bolts. We called this "Arch Escape." It's a 5.8. Aug 21, 2017

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