PRINT: Rock Climb Old School, New School, City of Rocks

Old School, New School

5.7+ PG13, Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Sheyne Anderson, Tamara Anderson, Eric Zschiesche
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Steinfell's Dome

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Start just left ( West ) of Theater of Shadows. Climb,... tending slightly left toward breaks and thin cracks where protection may be realized. Continue up the thin cracks in small left facing corners,... until a very good belay point is realized at about the 180 foot level. The second pitch ascends the thin crack system for approximately 30 more feet,... when one exits right and upward across a beautiful face section to the chains on the 2nd pitch of Theater of Shadows.

Location

The route is located on Jackson's Thumb. Start approximately 15 feet to the left of Theater of Shadows. Ascend upwards,... tending left. At the chains on the top of the 2nd pitch of Theater of Shadows, one may rappel, or finish on Theater of Shadows.

Protection

The protection is entirely comprised of passive traditional gear ( no bolts on this baby ), realized in numerous cracks and fissures. The protection is adequate,... though the leader may want to be solid at difficulty levels above the 5.7+ rating. No fixed gear or anchors,.. until one reaches the chains at the top of the 2nd pitch on Theater of Shadows.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The beautiful expanse of rock on the 2nd pitch..... Enjoy.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Past User

How appealing! Did you "realize" the potential for this line whilst rapping Theater of Shadows? Not many truly traditional lines at this grade! Great find. The art of nutcraft... Feb 20, 2015

Eric Zschiesche
Ogden, UT

5.7+

Hey bheller, Thank you for the kind words,... It was done with the " Old School " mentality of the ground up ascent approach. No previewing. :) Feb 21, 2015

Doug Smith
Almo, ID

I was waiting in line for Theater of Shadows while they did this pitch. Looked really fun. Looking forward to giving it a go. Mar 10, 2015

Dave Bingham
Hailey, ID

Nice! Jul 22, 2015