Type: Trad, 75 ft, Grade II
FA: Steve Wooding, Dave McDermott, Skip Comstock, Jon Paulding, and Rich Petersen (1990)
Page Views: 364 total · 8/month
Shared By: mister-midpines on Feb 18, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This is a difficult, wildly exposed alternative to the final pitch of Atlantis. (See p. 310 in Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.)

1. Climb the first three pitches of Atlantis.
2. From the third belay, in the large dihedral, face climb left to the highly exposed arete (1 bolt).
3. Climb directly up the arete (5.9) past a horizontal crack, and over the bulge (5.12a) to the top (2 bolts, 1 or 2 medium to small cams for horizontal crack).

The crux is immediately above the horizontal crack and is exceptionally well protected for a climb of this grade, with a clipped bolt above waist height.

Protection

Protection is same as for Atlantis.

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