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Routes in Phra Nang Beach, back wall

Khon Bar S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Little Shit S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Money Maker S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Name S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pra-Nang Priness S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Princess Eyes S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tales of Power S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tough Trip Through Paradise S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up To You Extended S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 104 total, 3/month
Shared By: Levi Call on Feb 17, 2015
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

This is the long line that starts on the steep, featured rock just to the left of the large Slabby section where all the guides put their clients on the easy routes. It's getting polished but is still an awesome route. Bottom draw needs to be cleaned from the group up with or without a rope.

Onsight SPOILER:
Pull onto the ledge after the first awkward roof and then it's all about managing the pump. The crux is at the end and requires a big move off a small right crimp to a decent but hard to see left hand hold. if the crimp is too small for your liking then go for the dyno from the better, lower holds.

Location

Inbetween "Em & Ems" and "Hot Dragon"

Protection

The book says 7 bolts and two slings. I didn't count how many I used but it would be a good idea to take more than you think you need. Bolts are a reasonable distance apart. But falls are clean.

Photos

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Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Loved it. Long, huge moves on giant holds, good rests, and a full value finish to the anchors. Apr 10, 2015