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All Locations > California > High Desert > New Jack City > Entrance Area C… > The Valentine Wall

My Bloody Valentine

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British


 Avg: 2.5 from 30 votes

Routes in The Valentine Wall

Cupid's Fever S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Love Potion 9 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Bloody Valentine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Victoria's Secret S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chapman, Neal, Thomas, & Champagne (02/15)
Page Views: 705 total · 16/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Feb 17, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Stem the polished slab and overhang. Utilize the crack/slot to pull the bulge and climb the right facing reddish corner, on flakes and features, to its end. Near the top pull flakes and features to reach the two bolt anchor.

Location

Left side of the wall, on the overhung right wall of the cavernous gulley.

Protection

6 bolts & anchors with screwlinks.

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Photos

Last night's festivities and this morning's climb. HVD.
Last night's festivities and this morning's cli…
 3
Working up the little red book section on My Bloody Valentine.
Working up the little red book section on My Bl…
 1
Over the bulge and into the littler red book.
Over the bulge and into the littler red book.
 1
Taking a ride on "My Bloody Valentine."
Taking a ride on "My Bloody Valentine."
 1

1 Comment

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Safty Third
San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Crux is right off the deck and mellows out right as you reach the second bolt. That being said, you do not want to blow it before the second bolt! Eases up quite a bit after the second bolt. Nov 6, 2016

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