Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chapman, Neal, Thomas, & Champagne (02/15)
Page Views: 982 total · 19/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Feb 17, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Stem the polished slab and overhang. Utilize the crack/slot to pull the bulge and climb the right facing reddish corner, on flakes and features, to its end. Near the top pull flakes and features to reach the two bolt anchor.

Location

Left side of the wall, on the overhung right wall of the cavernous gulley.

Protection

6 bolts & anchors with screwlinks.

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Photos

Last night's festivities and this morning's climb. HVD.
Last night's festivities and this morning's cli…
 3
Working up the little red book section on My Bloody Valentine.
Working up the little red book section on My Bl…
 1
Over the bulge and into the littler red book.
Over the bulge and into the littler red book.
 1
Taking a ride on "My Bloody Valentine."
Taking a ride on "My Bloody Valentine."
 1

2 Comments

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Safty Third
San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
Crux is right off the deck and mellows out right as you reach the second bolt. That being said, you do not want to blow it before the second bolt! Eases up quite a bit after the second bolt. Nov 6, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
youtube.com/watch?v=PY2DoIX…
Video by Sean Garecht. Mar 2, 2019