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Mindless Indulgence

5.11, Trad, 130 ft (39 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Jesse Zacher
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Quarry Wall Com… > Massey Wall

Description

This is one of the first ones put up on this section of wall by me. It is a great variety show on quality rock. Start on a large sloping ledge. Some easy terrain past a few bolts leads you to a ledge where you have to make a delicate pull to gain the crack. From here, a steep sustain crack takes you to a nice resting ledge. Then thrust upwards into some full value 5.10 offwidth. Then follow some steep terrain finding rests here and there. The end can be a heart breaker as it is tough climbing past a few bolts to the top anchors.

Location

The route Is to the left of a dark clean face and before an obvious prow formed by a deep chimney, and it is a few hundred feet left of Modulation Crack. It is best approached from the top. There were a few cairns, but they may be gone now. If approaching from the bottom, some scrambling will be needed to reach the base.

Protection

Doubles from fingers to #2 singles from #3-#5 Camalot, nuts, QDs, and shoulder length slings. Do double rap from anchors at the top to the large, sloping ledge.

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Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Careful of your knee in the offwidth. A boy named Tommy got his stuck for quite some time! Feb 17, 2015
Skyeler Congdon
Western Slope
  5.11
[Hide Comment] This is a REALLY great pitch, unfortunately a little overshadowed by the high number of classic routes nearby. It deserves more traffic and needs to clean up a tiny bit. Bring some pruning shears as a couple bushes have gotten intense and detract a little from the quality.

5 bolts, and I would for sure want a #5 in addition to a standard rack. I'm pretty soft, so I thought 11- was a little stiff, but it's definitely a step down from Waking Life - personally felt like 11b (6/23 EDIT: I think feet have broken off at the crux because it felt super hard today, closer to 11c). Really fun variety line that never really eases up and a showstopper boulder problem at the top! Sep 30, 2020