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Mindless Indulgence
5.11,
Trad, 130 ft (39 m),
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
FA: Jesse Zacher
Colorado
> Grand Junction…
> Unaweep Canyon
> Main Canyon: Un…
> Quarry Wall Com…
> Massey Wall
Description
This is one of the first ones put up on this section of wall by me. It is a great variety show on quality rock. Start on a large sloping ledge. Some easy terrain past a few bolts leads you to a ledge where you have to make a delicate pull to gain the crack. From here, a steep sustain crack takes you to a nice resting ledge. Then thrust upwards into some full value 5.10 offwidth. Then follow some steep terrain finding rests here and there. The end can be a heart breaker as it is tough climbing past a few bolts to the top anchors.
Location
The route Is to the left of a dark clean face and before an obvious prow formed by a deep chimney, and it is a few hundred feet left of
Modulation Crack. It is best approached from the top. There were a few cairns, but they may be gone now. If approaching from the bottom, some scrambling will be needed to reach the base.
Protection
Doubles from fingers to #2 singles from #3-#5 Camalot, nuts, QDs, and shoulder length slings. Do double rap from anchors at the top to the large, sloping ledge.
Grand Junction, Co
Western Slope
5 bolts, and I would for sure want a #5 in addition to a standard rack. I'm pretty soft, so I thought 11- was a little stiff, but it's definitely a step down from Waking Life - personally felt like 11b (6/23 EDIT: I think feet have broken off at the crux because it felt super hard today, closer to 11c). Really fun variety line that never really eases up and a showstopper boulder problem at the top! Sep 30, 2020