Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Todd Swain & Peggy Buckey 06-30-1988
Page Views: 463 total · 10/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Feb 17, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This route was named for the host of problems encountered by the first ascent party, the least of which, was finishing the route in the dark and then descending from the summit of the dome back to camp in Bubbs Creek without headlamps...

P1 & P2: Climb the right-hand, left-facing corner to the top of the pillar (5.7; 300 feet).
P3: Traverse right and slightly down to a mossy alcove (5.2; 140 feet, medium cams for belay).
P4: Move right, then go up a golden slab along a right leaning dike to a small belay ledge with one bolt (5.7 R; 80 feet).
P5: Go up the slab to a shallow left-facing corner. Up the corner to its intersection with a wide, white dike (bolt). Up the slab to exfoliated flakes above (5.6; 150 feet, small cams for belay).
P6: Climb straight up over numerous overlaps to a belay at a shallow, left-facing corner (5.5; 140 feet, TCUs and wires for belay).
P7: Go up along left-facing flakes to join an obvious left-facing exfoliated corner just below a roof. Go up the corner (5.7+) to a belay on a small ledge at left-facing flakes (5.7+; 150 feet, medium cams for belay).
P8: Continue up the corner past an overlap (scary 5.7) to belay on a small ledge further up the corner (5.7; 150 feet, finger sized cams for belay).
P9: Continue up the corner to a ledge. Continue up the crack system and huge right-facing flake above to a hanging belay (5.6; 150 feet, TCUs and wires for belay).
P10: Follow the crack and a wide, white dike upward. Belay at a pine tree (5.5; 150 feet).
P11 & P12: Follow the crack system to top (5.2; 300 feet).


Start at the right-hand of two very obvious left-facing corner/water grooves on the SE face of Charlotte Dome. This route is quite a bit right of the classic route up the dome.


Carry wires, TCUs and cams up to a gold Camalot. There are several bolts on the route that were placed by hand on the lead.


- No Photos -