Type: Sport, TR, 20 ft
FA: Brian Derrig
Page Views: 313 total · 7/month
Shared By: Morgan F. Smith on Feb 15, 2015
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Sign Waiver @ trail head. Details

Description

Low crux, just trust the feet. Beta is wack since the breaking of a key hold, do what you can up to the ledge. After that, easy movement on nice pockets and the arete up to the chains.

Location

Far end of the Sanctuary, to the right of the short but prominent dihedral (Good Book). To the left of the obvious arete.

Protection

3 bolts, to 2 anchors/chains.

Photos

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Jake Westfall
Austin, TX
  5.11b
Jake Westfall   Austin, TX
  5.11b
The rock is quite brittle in several spots, and I'm pretty sure some of the key holds have broken off this route, increasing the grade by a lot. I climbed it today (or attempted to) and would say that the crux section is *at least* 5.11b. The sequences I did actually manage to pull off were pretty neat though. The pockets on the top part of the route were really dirty. Oct 19, 2017
Morgan F. Smith
Texas
  5.10b
Morgan F. Smith   Texas
  5.10b
Sad to hear it, but thanks for the update, Jake! Nov 26, 2017
J. Thornton
  5.11a
J. Thornton  
  5.11a
Two of our group think it's 11a, one thinks 11b. Nothing crazy on the crux moves, just takes a bit of thought to work it out. May 9, 2018