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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin , The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Black Solitare Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man On the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015
Page Views: 1,776 total, 52/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 14, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A sweeping, stunning pitch, The Black Solitaire is in many ways "Thee Line" on the Main Wall. This pitch is the harder twin to Solitaire, which the line also starts on, for a diamond can only be polished by means of other diamonds.

After the bulging first crux of Solitaire at bolt #8, keep moving up and right into a fat, black water streak. A pumpy shake is followed by both a mix of old school 1/4" pad cranking, and then a superb series of technical, crimpy compression cruxes. It's pretty brilliant climbing if you enjoy thought provoking power endurance.

Gorgeous jugs await at the top, and a standing anchor clip.


A bonus is that it is rather easy to lower from Solitaire's anchor to The Black Solitaire anchor to rig TRs or hang draws, etc.

Location

Center of the Main Wall. Starts on Solitaire.

Protection

13 bolts, 3 of which are chain draws
10 draws, though I'd recommend a handful of long draws, and a runner or two down low.
2 bolt anchor with fixed biners

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Thanks to Joel for making this pitch official. Wish I could have seen the send. Mar 24, 2015