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Routes in Main Wall

A Faint Horizon S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Assassin, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Solitaire Direct S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Solitaire, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Broad Axe S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Continental Drift S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Fluffy Puppy Puffy, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hermit, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Holy Roller S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lost Solitude S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lucky Old Sun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Old Sun Direct S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man on the Moon S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rusty Blade S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scythe, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Shout S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Slipstream S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solitaire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thunder Moon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird ArĂȘte S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whiplash S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015
Page Views: 2,207 total · 49/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 14, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Portions of Mt. Elden are closed for Forest Thinning Details

Description

A sweeping, stunning pitch, The Black Solitaire is in many ways "Thee Line" on the Main Wall. Quality rock and great climbing from the bottom to the top. This pitch is the harder twin to Solitaire, which the line also starts on, for a diamond can only be polished by means of other diamonds.

After the bulging first crux of Solitaire at bolt #8, keep moving up and right into a fat, black water streak. A pumpy shake is followed by both a mix of old school 1/4" pad cranking, and then a superb series of technical, crimpy compression moves. It's pretty brilliant climbing.

Gorgeous jugs await at the top, and a standing anchor clip.

A bonus is that it is rather easy to lower from Solitaire's anchor to The Black Solitaire anchor to rig TRs or hang draws, etc.

Location

Center of the Main Wall. Starts on Solitaire.

Protection

13 bolts, 3 of which are chain draws- many back clean the middle chain draw to help rope flow.
10 draws, though I'd recommend a handful of long draws, and a runner or two down low.
2 bolt anchor with fixed biners

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