Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2015
Page Views: 2,520 total · 54/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Feb 14, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

A sweeping, stunning pitch, The Black Solitaire is in many ways Thee Line on the Main Wall. Quality rock and super fun climbing from the bottom to the top. This pitch is the harder twin to Solitaire, which the line also starts on, for a diamond can only be polished by means of other diamonds.

After the bulging first crux of Solitaire at bolt #8, keep moving up and right into a fat, black water streak. A pumpy shake is followed by both a mix of old school 1/4" pad cranking and then a superb series of technical, crimpy compression moves. It seems no matter what beta you go with, it's pretty brilliant climbing and excellent positioning. Gorgeous jugs await at the top and a standing anchor clip.

A bonus is that it is rather easy to lower from Solitaire's anchor to The Black Solitaire anchor to rig TRs or hang draws, etc.

Location

Center of the Main Wall. Starts on Solitaire.

Protection

As of 11.25.18 all the fixed linkage hardware on this route has been upgraded to 3/8” steel including the chain draw extensions, chain anchors, and quick links.

13 lead bolts that may be seasonly equipped with ClimbTech perma draws (November-March). If you get up there and are only seeing chain extensions under the roof, just clip the bottom quicklinks on the chain with a draw and your rope should run as designed. 

2 bolt, chain anchor with ClimbTech mussy hooks provided by the ASCA.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.13a
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
  5.13a
Thanks to Wade and donations from several others, we have equipped the Black Solitaire with ClimbTech perma draws for the season. They will come down At the end of March. Nov 17, 2018
If you are a heavier climber, please use some caution when pulling on the black diamond undercling. 13 hours ago