East Sentinel, North Hand Crack
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 615 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 13, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a short and scrappy route with good movement and ample gear. The climbing is as good as it looks but is unfortunately only really engaging for a few body-lengths.
Start from the belay just below the corner and place a 3" cam to protect the moves getting up onto a lichenous slab below the overhanging corner. Place a few pieces of gear up in the corner, including one at your feet to hold the rope out of the way of climbing, then back clean the one out to the right below the slab.
Make a few moves on jams before attacking the crack and roof. The crux will be pulling up over the roof and onto the slab. 3 different people in my party did this 3 different ways: left side in, straight in, and liebacking.
Dare I say, the left side in approach appeared to work the best... especially for leading it.
Kneebars and a head/foot opposition move were used up top to get over the roof and onto the slab, making this a very fun and gymnastic climb for its short length of difficulty.
Run up and left to the top, then slightly back right to place a cam and cordalette (on a boulder) belay.
Start from the belay just below the corner and place a 3" cam to protect the moves getting up onto a lichenous slab below the overhanging corner. Place a few pieces of gear up in the corner, including one at your feet to hold the rope out of the way of climbing, then back clean the one out to the right below the slab.
Make a few moves on jams before attacking the crack and roof. The crux will be pulling up over the roof and onto the slab. 3 different people in my party did this 3 different ways: left side in, straight in, and liebacking.
Dare I say, the left side in approach appeared to work the best... especially for leading it.
Kneebars and a head/foot opposition move were used up top to get over the roof and onto the slab, making this a very fun and gymnastic climb for its short length of difficulty.
Run up and left to the top, then slightly back right to place a cam and cordalette (on a boulder) belay.
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