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Routes in Sentinel Boulders

East Sentinel, North Hand Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
East Sentinel/North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
West Sentinel / East Face aka Southeast Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 58 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 13, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a short and scrappy route with good movement and ample gear. The climbing is as good as it looks but is unfortunately only really engaging for a few body-lengths.

Start from the belay just below the corner and place a 3" cam to protect the moves getting up onto a lichenous slab below the overhanging corner. Place a few pieces of gear up in the corner, including one at your feet to hold the rope out of the way of climbing, then back clean the one out to the right below the slab.

Make a few moves on jams before attacking the crack and roof. The crux will be pulling up over the roof and onto the slab. 3 different people in my party did this 3 different ways: left side in, straight in, and liebacking.

Dare I say, the left side in approach appeared to work the best... especially for leading it.

Kneebars and a head/foot opposition move were used up top to get over the roof and onto the slab, making this a very fun and gymnastic climb for its short length of difficulty.

Run up and left to the top, then slightly back right to place a cam and cordalette (on a boulder) belay.

Location

This route lies on the North side of the East Sentinel, about 40 yards off of the Royal Arch trail. It is obvious from the trail and climbs the overhanging/leaning right-facing corner with the crack through the roof.

Protection

A run of cams 1 each from 3" to 0.75", extras for the top if you want to back up the cordalette belay anchor on the big horn.

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