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Shellfish Roof

5.9, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Mark Butterworth 1972
California > Redwood Coast > Patrick's Point SP > Wedding Rock

Description

Start up the thin crack 20 feet left of Zig Zag Crack. After the thin crack, work your way up and left to the shelf/roof (5.8). Cross the ledge and place a directional and a nest of gear before you pull the bulge crux (5.9). Continue 30 feet to your anchor. Excelent Route!!!

This route is listed by Mark Butterworth in the 1974 guide as Unnamed. Mark had some great insight about the early days of these routes. The beginning of the traverse and roof used to be protected by a fixed piton.

Location

20' left of Zig Zag Crack

Protection

Cams .2 - 1.5". Emphasis on your really small cams.

Gear anchor 30' above the lip. Look for the solid cracks to the right of the blocks. Anchor: .3-1.5".
An extra rope is useful for extending the anchor, but not required.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fun traverse up to the shelf/roof
[Hide Photo] Fun traverse up to the shelf/roof
I went overkill on the bomber nest of gear for the crux. You can never be too careful on this rock.
[Hide Photo] I went overkill on the bomber nest of gear for the crux. You can never be too careful on this rock.
Great route!!
[Hide Photo] Great route!!