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Routes in Sawyer Wall
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Bucking the Norm S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deadwood Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flipline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One for the Old Gaffer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saw Jockey S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Stihl Refinery S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Trevor Bowman and Felix Parham, 8/24/14 |
| Page Views: | 682 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Trevor Bowman on Feb 11, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This shares the lower 1/2 of Deadwood Direct, before cutting left for the upper 1/2.
The bottom is a bit of a conundrum currently. While cleaning/equipping this I shrugged off a potential traversing start from the right as it entailed climbing on some very suspect looking jugs through the crunchy lower band of light colored rock. I placed the first bolt intending this to start with a stickclip (stick is there) and winch past the blankish roof to the bolt and starting from there. However, when I finally got back months later to climb this, I played around on the choss jugs to the right and they held up. I led this with the 1st bolt stickclipped, gingerly traversing these choss jugs at about .10-. I intend to return to this in spring 2015 to clean and test these features with the prybar and if they stay strong, I'll add another bolt to this start.
From the 1st bolt, climb jugs past a 2nd bolt into a short, left-facing dihedral, cut left under a roof and around a scary block (I tried and tried and couldn't budge it with the bar, I have done pullups on it on TR, it seems pretty set on staying there...), where Deadwood continues straight above, cut left around the corner into a nice dihedral with stemming and good edges, exit this left under a bulge to the anchors on Stihl Refinery.
A decent trad line for the grade, on mostly good rock and gear. It's pretty much necessary to have someone follow this to clean it.
The bottom is a bit of a conundrum currently. While cleaning/equipping this I shrugged off a potential traversing start from the right as it entailed climbing on some very suspect looking jugs through the crunchy lower band of light colored rock. I placed the first bolt intending this to start with a stickclip (stick is there) and winch past the blankish roof to the bolt and starting from there. However, when I finally got back months later to climb this, I played around on the choss jugs to the right and they held up. I led this with the 1st bolt stickclipped, gingerly traversing these choss jugs at about .10-. I intend to return to this in spring 2015 to clean and test these features with the prybar and if they stay strong, I'll add another bolt to this start.
From the 1st bolt, climb jugs past a 2nd bolt into a short, left-facing dihedral, cut left under a roof and around a scary block (I tried and tried and couldn't budge it with the bar, I have done pullups on it on TR, it seems pretty set on staying there...), where Deadwood continues straight above, cut left around the corner into a nice dihedral with stemming and good edges, exit this left under a bulge to the anchors on Stihl Refinery.
A decent trad line for the grade, on mostly good rock and gear. It's pretty much necessary to have someone follow this to clean it.
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