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Routes in Sawyer Wall

Bucking the Norm S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Deadwood Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flipline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One for the Old Gaffer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saw Jockey S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stihl Refinery S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman 11/22/14
Page Views: 205 total, 6/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 11, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A nice mixed bolt/gear line with some burly sequences.
The bottom is a bit of a conundrum currently. While cleaning/equipping this I shrugged off a potential traversing start from the right as it entailed climbing on some very suspect looking jugs through the crunchy lower band of light colored rock. I placed the first bolt intending this to start with a stickclip (stick is there) and winch past the blankish roof to the bolt and starting from there. However, when I finally got back months later to climb this, I played around on the choss jugs to the right and they held up. I led this with the 1st bolt stickclipped, gingerly traversing these choss jugs at about .10-. I intend to return to this in spring 2015 to clean and test these features with the prybar and if they stay strong, I'll add another bolt to this start.
From the 1st bolt, climb jugs past a 2nd bolt into a short, left-facing dihedral, cut left under a roof and pull over a scary block (I tried and tried and couldn't budge it with the bar, I have done pullups on it on TR, it seems pretty set on staying there...) into a tricky fingercrack, regroup before cutting right and busting a burly crux over the final mini-roof using a combination of face features, jams, and body english.

Location

2nd line of bolts from the left, high 1st bolt over blank roof start.

Protection

2 bolts, fixed nut at crux, (2x) .3-.5 C4s (TCUs or C3s very nice) (1x) .75-#2 C4, Clip-and-lower anchors

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I really enjoyed this one! The crux is tricky and fun. The nut isn't exactly fixed, but it sure is useful! Jul 6, 2015