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Routes in Wadi Rum

A Camel's Tale T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Beauty, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bedouin Bedlam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight of Fancy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goldfinger T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Guerre Sainte S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lionheart T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Merlin's Wand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
More Sand Than Stone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rum For Sail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sandproof T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Star of Abu Judaidah, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Towering Inferno T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wisdom Pillar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 17 pitches, Grade IV
FA: W. Colonna, A. Howard, D. Taylor, 3 October 1986
Page Views: 1,574 total · 38/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Feb 9, 2015
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Access Issue: Entrance Fees Details

Description

The Pillar Of Wisdom has evolved into the area moderate classic and this route on the Hammad's Domes section of the East Face of Jebel Rum is obvious and striking as viewed from the Rum Valley.

After locating the Pillar, scramble to its base via a couple of easy pitches and then continue up the left side of the Pillar. Many pitches can be linked together. Though the original pitch count has been noted to be 17, I have done the route in 9 or 10 when stretching out the pitches. Others have probably even further reduced the pitch count. A lot of cruising terrain can be passed quickly on various sections of the route.

Upper part of the route, a ramp leads out left and up and some signs of other parties should make the route obvious, but good route finding skills are crucial to success. The climbing is quite straight forward until the final face moves on the exit pitch which can seem tricky.

A great wall route not to be missed!

The descent can be confusing, but walk off from the top of the Pillar up the right hand dome and continue NW past a hollow with two large juniper trees, then left around a final dome to a sandy area where it meets Hammad's Route. Look for Cairns.

Location

Cross the desert to the South West to Wadi Shelaali and move up to terraces in a cirque between this pillar (Two obvious huge chimneys on both sides of the Pillar).

The somewhat obscure descent as noted above. The Tony Howard guidebook descent description has been known to make it even more confusing than it should be. Use good mountain sense and intuition.

Protection

A full standard desert rack of Camalots and Nuts is needed. Take along a good selection of slings to reduce rope drag for the rope stretchers.

Don't forget your headlamp!

Photos

Mark Rafferty 1
Seattle, WA
Mark Rafferty 1   Seattle, WA
A great climb that we had a lot of fun on.

-The "scramble" to the base has some 4th class moves and wasn't too too easy. You can save time by not roping up for it but rock shoes help.

-Pay attention to where you should cut right for your second to last traverse to the crack on the right. There is a rap anchor further up the crack on the left and it looks deceptively inviting but it is a dead end.

-The descent is not easy to find. It's a lot easier if you've been up on top of Jebel Rum before and you know Hammad's domes. If you know the way, you can come down in 2-3 hours, but otherwise, leave yourself time for trial and error. The sandstone domes can be a bit of a maze. Seems like a lot of people get benighted up there. May 21, 2015
Dana Hawlish 1
Salt Lake City, Utah
Dana Hawlish 1   Salt Lake City, Utah
this climb is great fun, but.....17 pitches?!? we did it as 5 easily with a 70m rope. Mar 6, 2018

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