Type: Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Derek Weiss and Nate Adams 1993
Page Views: 1,656 total · 27/month
Shared By: Nate K on Feb 9, 2015
Admins: grk10vq, Zach Wahrer

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. Details

Description

The snow pitches on this route have potential to slide, be smart. Go up the gully and climb a pitch of WI3. continue up on WI2/ moderate snow for a few hundred feet untill you can see the upper pitches. a short WI4 column leads to a cave at the base of the "dangler." Belay in the cave. Climb right and clip some pitons (very hard to find, might only be one or even none as of 2018) then gently gain the hanging ice curtain. Continue up and build a belay on the right in a sheltered little pocket alcove. Next pitch continues up over a short vertical headwall, belay from some blobs at the top. The bonus pitch continues up a thin column and can easily be skipped or bypassed. Continue up several pitches of more moderate ice to near the top of the ridge and enjoy the view. To descend, rap the route on V-threads.

Description from Nate Adams:

Grade IV+, WI5 (+?)

Pitch 1: 25-30 feet, WI3+.
Pitch 2: 20-25 feet of vertical followed by 25ft ramp.
Pitch 3: WI5 (or harder?) 30 foot pitch that begins with a thin pillar (that gradually widens and becomes a nice vertical sheet) to a comfortable stance. Belay/rap from baby angle/knifeblade (that were placed in 1993!).
Pitch 4: WI5 to a large ledge with belay in ice. Long vertical section. I vaguely recall the vert being about 50 or 60 feet. 2 rope rap to base of pillar below (we used old school 150 foot ropes).
Pitch 5: Short ramp or short 90 degree curtain up the left fork of the gulley. Climb snow to belay.
Pitch 6: Starts with 15-20 feet of 85 to 90 degree ice, followed by a ramp to another steep section. There was a nice tree to rap from here (2 ropes).
Pitch 7: 70 feet of WI3 to tree (single rope rap from this tree).

Location

go climbers left at the base of dribbles and walk a hundred yards or so to the next drainage. continue up the gully

Protection

screws, crux is protected by a few fixed pins

Photos