PRINT: Rock Climb The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly., Los Angeles Basin

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.

5.10b/c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Neal & Chapman (02/08/15)
California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Texas Canyon > Spur

Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION Details

1. Texas Canyon is conglomerate that is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.

2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.

Description

A bouldery opening move leads to a large hueco and the 1st bolt. Move up and left on good holds to another deep pocket. Continue up until a traverse right is necessary to gain pockets to pull the bulge. Climb the overhung face on excellent pockets up and right to the shoulder where the angle eases. Continue climbing on features to the anchor.

Location

West face of the Spur. Right line of bolts, with the watermelon-sized hueco twelve feet above the ground.

Protection

5 bolts & 2-Fixe ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Working the good hueco above the bouldery start.

At the anchor for "Spurmicide," on the west shoulder of the Spur.

Working the moves on "The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly."

At the anchor on Spermicide.