Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dog Gone Tower

Wolf-Dog T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Roy Suggett and Zac Warren
Page Views: 353 total, 10/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Feb 7, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Harder than the rest of the rock in the Grand Staircase, you still will need to sew it up! This is a beautiful area and the colors here are postcard-esque! The first aid moves are disconcerting. Then you run through some good climbing until you reach a vertical off-width/chimney. There is gear and hands in the back of this intimidating 30 foot head tester. The exit is awkward but doable.

Location

East of "Promise Rock" and just a hundred feet off the cliff band this tower is easy to find though not easily seen from the road. The Wolf-Dog line is on the northeast side of Dog Gone Tower. Scramble up some loose blocks onto a low col between the tower and a much shorter pile. Then traverse right on a small ledge to a thin crack. Place a lot of small gear and step into aiders. A few moves gets you to a large ledge. The rest of the line goes free.

Protection

Passive = Black and pink tricams, small wires and offsets
Active = 00 Met. through .3 BD X 1, BD #1s through #5s X3.
Anchor = 3 bolts with webbing and a quick link
Rope = A single 60 meter will "just" get you to the ground.

Photos

Lots of SAND... but especially a sandBAG at 5.8!?! Love you both but no f*!#ing way this is 5.8! No 5.8 climber I know has the gear needed for this line...;) Beautiful views from the top! Apr 6, 2015
BSU_Zac
 
BSU_Zac  
 
Fun little tower and this is easiest path to the summit. The crux is near the bottom where you can either do 5.9 free moves up left that is unprotected and on loose dirt or you could do two moves of C1 down right to gain the ledge; these moves will likely go free at 5.awkward. The top chimney is good dirty fun with exit moves around 5.8. Bring a few runners to limit rope drag. This tower has a few choice lines yet to be done. Mar 8, 2015