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Routes in Bitty Buttress

A's Jax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bitty Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buzz, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Creeping Obscurity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Electricity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Ascension T,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1-2
Jagged Ascension aka The Hand is Quicker than the Eye T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaguary T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jam Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jitters, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lorax, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Milk the Quartz for Pints T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Moby Dike S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peach Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peapod T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Return To Sender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Reveille T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right Crack or Last Crack (aka Mirage?) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise and Shine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
South T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spins, The T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treetop Landing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Voices Carry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Welcome Home S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 124 total · 3/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Feb 5, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

On 30 Jan. 2015, David Light and I were looking for a warm-up on a cold morning, before climbing Reveille on the adjacent Amphitheater. About 50 feet right of Creeping Obscurity, David led up, crossing a thick, horizontal vein of milky quartz. He continued up, meandering to find protection and avoid solid-looking granite dinner plates (5.8). He belayed on a broken ledge at about 110 feet. Another loose pitch (5.6) ended on the left-descending ramp, about 20 feet right of the relatively tall ponderosa pine. We descended west, partway down the ramp to the nadir of the steeper upper wall of the Annex.

The third pitch began right of a large juniper tucked into an alcove. David led up into a large pocket of milky quartz, then diagonaled right before heading straight up, to the top of the upper wall (5.9-). The whole climb has interesting moves complicated by lots of the powdery lichen that lubes crucial footholds.

Location

The first two pitches lie on the right side of The Annex. The third pitch begins to the right of a large juniper tucked into the nadir of the upper tier, on the west-descending ramp.

We topped out on a plateau, east of the summit of the Bitty Buttress. We walked east, then south, to the top of the west-descending ramp. We followed the ramp down, to the base of the Amphitheater. Down-climbing above deadly drop-offs begged caution. We did a short rap from a sling on a flake.

Protection

SR.

Photos

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