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Routes in Jebel Kharaz

Amidst Difficulty Lies Opportunity T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Res von Känel and James Garrett, 14 November 2006
Page Views: 60 total · 2/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Feb 4, 2015
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Description

The route follows the very obvious wide appearing dihedral that continues to the top of the formation/tower. This seemed to us to be the FA of this tower as no other signs of a previous ascent were found.

From the car 3rd class up some slabs to the base of the dihedral where it steepens. Belay here.

Pitch #1: A very wide but straight forward right facing slot climbs to a two-bolt belay. Initially climbed only using very wide Camalots and running it out, we returned and placed 4 bolts on this very difficult to protect yet awesome first pitch. 5.9, 40m.

Pitch #2: Continuing up the now super wide crack system persuaded us to climb an exposed 5.9 face out left. We left a piton fixed here that offers some protection. Reach a ledge, then climb back into the wide slot and past two bolts and a thread eventually reaching a hand crack to a two-bolt belay on a nice ledge. 5.10, 50m.

Pitch #3: Climb a left facing dihedral to a difficult roof and then face climb to a ledge and belay. 5.10, 30m.

Pitch #4: Climb a left facing to a right facing dihedral to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.

Pitch #5: Scramble to the top of the tower. 3rd class, 40m.

Return to the two bolt belay on top of Pitch #4, and rappel the low angle spur to where it is possible to walk off to the sand flats.

Location

The obvious line on Jebel Kharaz. The famous Kharaz Rock Bridge is just to its right.

Protection

QDs and a full set of Camalots and Nuts (Standard Desert Rack). Consider bringing new webbing to replace the sun bleached tat at the anchors.

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