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Bedouin Bedlam

5.10-, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: James Garrett and Res von Känel, 13 November 2006
International > Asia > Jordan > Wadi Rum > Abu N' Khala
Warning Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing DetailsDrop down

Description

Find the beginning of the route at the far right side of the alcove which is reached after a 20-30 minute approach hike.

Pitch 1: Climb a groove and a straight in crack system and then jog right to easier ground and to a ledge and belay. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch 2: Initially a right facing dihedral to some face climbing (5.7) to a ledge. Traverse right to a prominent left facing dihedral. Climb it passing a fixed piton to a ledge belay. 5.10, 25m.

Pitch 3: Climb up left past featured rock to a right facing dihedral and follow the crack through a roof to a prominent ledge and we built a cairn here. 5.8, 55m.

Move left along the little ledge to a two-bolt belay and rappel station where you can descend the Sky Line Buttress.

Location

Driving south a few miles out of Rum village drive to the towers known locally as Abu N' Khala. A massively big dihedral dissects the the larger of the towers. 50m to the right of this on the right side of an alcove is a prominent tree and the crack system that marks the beginning of the route. A Bedouin Camp is often situated in an open area below the Abu N' Khala Towers.

Rappel the Sky Line Buttress with two ropes, via two-bolt rap stations.

Protection

A full set of Nuts and Camalots ("Standard Desert Rack"). One fixed piton was left in the 5.10 left facing dihedral on Pitch 2.