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Routes in Hot Tuna Buttress
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Cold Sushi V10 7C+ |
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Cold Turkey TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eat or be Eaten TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flying Fish TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Tuna V5 6C |
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O-Zone, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,644 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Vakili on Feb 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
Details
Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
Full body physicality. Looking at hot tuna from left to right, this problem starts deep in the seam beneath the second hueco. There is an amazingly positive and bomber water polished full-pad crimp to start right hand on, with the left matched on a smaller crimp to the left. Feet are technical. Pull off of your butt on the crimp and start shooting out, working toward the hueco (toe hooks?). Once in the hueco, the crux is behind you, and you can get a little rest before exiting the roof via a big flat hold, 2finger halfpad pocket/crimp out left, another wonderful water-polished crimp up high, and a glorious victory jug out left to finish! Keep your head together as you traverse out left. An excellent line in a classic location just begging to be done.
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