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Routes in Whale Dome

Blood Brother T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Call Me Ishmael T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dem Bones T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Harpoon Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
South Face Direct Finish // Mobius Strip T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: (per commenters, done 20+ yrs back didn't disclose who)
Page Views: 875 total · 20/month
Shared By: bikesrockswaves on Feb 4, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Mega-cool way to finish the South Face of Whale Dome - and what seems like the obvious direct line. Run straight up the vertical wall midway between Moby Dick and Dem Bones (which are about 60' apart). Move straight up into hanging copper colored dinner plates, then angle slightly right, then back up & left. 5.7+. Good gear once you sling the first dinner plate.
Can combine w/ P4 of SF w/ 80m rope (maybe w/ 70m?)

Location

Midway between starts of the final sections of Dem Bones & Moby Dick. Moby Dick is vertical turtle shell; Dem Bones is the huge spinal feature that tapers off. Climb the vertical part in the middle.

Protection

Whatever rack got you to the top of Whale Dome should be fine. Very light rack w/ slings.

Photos

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Derek Anderson
Tucson, AZ
Derek Anderson   Tucson, AZ
likely been done before....you could change that to "been done before" Mar 2, 2015
Person1  
Dear LC and JHS, this was climbed over a quarter century ago. Best to remove your posting for the sake of accuracy. Jun 21, 2015
bikesrockswaves
Tucson, Arizona
 
bikesrockswaves   Tucson, Arizona
 
Just saw 2nd commenter on prior ascent. Noted FA accordingly. Please let me know if party known and I will update accordingly. Great little fun piece of climbing for folks on Moby Dick, South Face, or Dem Bones. Main goal is encouraging folks to enjoy it. Jul 14, 2015

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