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Routes in Campanile Esloveno

Buch-Goin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excuse Me Señora, Give Me la Hora T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fonrouge-Bertoncelj T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Imagínate T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Take Two (4) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Esteban Buch & José Luis Goin, 1981
Page Views: 391 total, 11/month
Shared By: Gabe K on Feb 3, 2015
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Begin 5m below the base of a steep dihedral leading to a distinct roof (9+ crux). Traverse right under the roof, then continue up to the first belay. Follow a series of diverging cracks, trending left, before traversing left to avoid another roof and reaching a loose platform (p2 belay). Continue by circling left and making way to false summit block (p3 belay), then make exposed moves around either side of the false summit, continue exposed traverse before final moves to la cumbre.

Location

East face of Aguja Campanile Esloveno, most obvious and left-most dihedral leading to the shoulder at 2/3 height of the tower. Start requires harder moves off of bergschrund in spring conditions, or an alternate, easy, but unprotected traverse start from the left. Rappel the route using 1 70 m rope, requires 1 5th class downclimb move to reach start.

Protection

Trad (doubles in cams to 3, stoppers). P1 belay has bolts, P2 has intermediate pitons useful for rappel. Summit block has 3 bolts (1 spinner, 17 Dec. 2014).

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