Type: Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Esteban Buch & José Luis Goin, 1981
Page Views: 1,476 total · 13/month
Shared By: Gabriel Kiritz on Feb 3, 2015
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

Begin 5m below the base of a steep dihedral leading to a distinct roof (9+ crux). Traverse right under the roof, then continue up to the first belay. Follow a series of diverging cracks, trending left, before traversing left to avoid another roof and reaching a loose platform (p2 belay). Continue by circling left and making way to false summit block (p3 belay), then make exposed moves around either side of the false summit, continue exposed traverse before final moves to la cumbre.

Location Suggest change

East face of Aguja Campanile Esloveno, most obvious and left-most dihedral leading to the shoulder at 2/3 height of the tower. Start requires harder moves off of bergschrund in spring conditions, or an alternate, easy, but unprotected traverse start from the left. Rappel the route using 1 70 m rope, requires 1 5th class downclimb move to reach start.

Protection Suggest change

Trad (doubles in cams to 3, stoppers). P1 belay has bolts, P2 has intermediate pitons useful for rappel. Summit block has 3 bolts (1 spinner, 17 Dec. 2014).

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