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Routes in Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)

All Mixed Up T WI4- R
Full Recovery T,TR WI2-3
Middle Finger of Dr. Wazz, The T WI5
Mills' Lake Right Side T WI3-4
Type: Trad, TR, Ice, Alpine, 160 ft
FA: Doug Snively, Duncan Ferguson, 1970s
Page Views: 301 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 1, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an easily accessed bit of ice that probably has been climbed previously, but it isn't listed in guidebooks, perhaps because it is on the way to a bigger, more famous climb. We'll list a name here, but if you know another name for it, let me know and I'll update it.

This bit of blue-ish ice has probably a couple variations to do. It has a nice, protected belay stance to the left (rock anchors with #1 Camalot or tiny cams and medium wire). Wander up some lower angle ice with bulges. You can belay perhaps 80-90' up on the right at a tree or continue up to the funneled exit (crux). The branches blocking the exit suggested it hasn't been done too recently. Continue up and right another ~50' to a tree for a belay.

You can walk off down a somewhat steep gully to the right and around the bit of ice to the right.

From a conversation with Doug Snively, he & Duncan Ferguson climbed this back in the 1970s. They did not name it then. He was fine with whatever name came forth.

The listed name comes from a one year anniversary from shoulder surgery and getting back to full strength for Deb.

Location

This is the middle obvious bit of ice just above Mills Lake way, way below All Mixed Up. In a busy winter, the walk to Mills' Lake can be very packed requiring only perhaps 150-200' vertical of snow wallowing.

Protection

Perhaps a few medium and stubby ice screws. A couple longer slings for the belay(s).

Photos

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