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Routes in Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)

All Mixed Up T WI4- R
Full Recovery T,TR WI2-3
Middle Finger of Dr. Wazz, The T WI5
Mills' Lake Right Side T WI3-4
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Type: Trad, TR, Ice, Alpine, 160 ft
FA: Doug Snively, Duncan Ferguson, 1970s
Page Views: 390 total · 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 1, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is an easily accessed bit of ice that probably has been climbed previously, but it isn't listed in guidebooks, perhaps because it is on the way to a bigger, more famous climb. We'll list a name here, but if you know another name for it, let me know and I'll update it.

This bit of blue-ish ice has probably a couple variations to do. It has a nice, protected belay stance to the left (rock anchors with #1 Camalot or tiny cams and medium wire). Wander up some lower angle ice with bulges. You can belay perhaps 80-90' up on the right at a tree or continue up to the funneled exit (crux). The branches blocking the exit suggested it hasn't been done too recently. Continue up and right another ~50' to a tree for a belay.

You can walk off down a somewhat steep gully to the right and around the bit of ice to the right.

From a conversation with Doug Snively, he & Duncan Ferguson climbed this back in the 1970s. They did not name it then. He was fine with whatever name came forth.

The listed name comes from a one year anniversary from shoulder surgery and getting back to full strength for Deb.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the middle obvious bit of ice just above Mills Lake way, way below All Mixed Up. In a busy winter, the walk to Mills' Lake can be very packed requiring only perhaps 150-200' vertical of snow wallowing.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Perhaps a few medium and stubby ice screws. A couple longer slings for the belay(s).

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