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Arc Angel

5.10a, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 120 votes
FA: Tony Calderone, Dave Carrol, 2011
Utah > Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Wall Street
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Poop Alert! DetailsDrop down

Description

The crux is down low between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. You can go two different ways here: directly up on good but balancy feet or to the left of the bolt line on some thin holds. After the crux the route trends right, then up through a small break in the cliff to the anchor.

Location

The bolted line 20 feet right of She-la the Peeler.

Protection

Bolts to rappel anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The worst has yet to come.
[Hide Photo] The worst has yet to come.
This is the unknown route between Arc Angel and Tastes Like Chicken. Shares anchor with Arc Angel. 5.9+ or 10a
[Hide Photo] This is the unknown route between Arc Angel and Tastes Like Chicken. Shares anchor with Arc Angel. 5.9+ or 10a
Clipping the second bolt... Fell several times going for that damn third bolt :/
[Hide Photo] Clipping the second bolt... Fell several times going for that damn third bolt :/
Led this route to set up a top rope (this route is on the right side of the tree). The second and third bolt are most difficult to get. I think there were a total of eight bolts before I reached the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Led this route to set up a top rope (this route is on the right side of the tree). The second and third bolt are most difficult to get. I think there were a total of eight bolts before I reached th…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

curt86iroc
Lakewood, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] nice and fun. felt much easier than 10a. probably 5.8 with 1 or 2 5.9 moves. Oct 4, 2015
Eric Odenthal
Moab, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Bad bolt placement. Don't deck clipping the third bolt! Dec 4, 2015
Garrett Carter
SL, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Eric - my foot slipped clipping the third bolt and I was no where near decking. Bolt placement seemed fine. Cruz was definitely clipping the third bolt. I tried going to the left but my partner went straight up and made it look easier Apr 4, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] There's a new route to the right of this, climbing just left of a small corner feature. It starts about 30-40 feet right of Arc Angel, on the right side of the tree. Apr 21, 2016
Mark Says
Basalt, CO
 
[Hide Comment] This has the least boring top out of the last 3 climbs on this slab, but it's still another stand up and walk to the anchors kind of thang. The bottom 3-4 bolts are good fun! Oct 10, 2017
jefe Moab
[Hide Comment] 10A? Really? Moving up to 3rd bolt felt harder. Eric is right. There's no good clipping stance, and it's the crux. Your belayer will want to be heads up on this section, without a bunch of slack out. Maybe a couple of crimps broke off?. The picture featured above is the 2nd bolt, crux is higher. Jan 15, 2022
Bryan Alexander
GJCO
5.10c
[Hide Comment] Agreed with previous comments. 3rd bolt feels unnecessarily placed a foot too high, not protecting the crux, but that can be par for the course here. If the route to the right of this is 10a I would have no problem calling this 10c. Mar 20, 2022
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Felt to me like 10b+ for three bolts and 5.8 for the rest! Good fun, onsight by the very last skin of my teeth May 10, 2022
Ryan DeLena
Sudbury MA / Lyndon VT
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Yeah. As someone who’s climbed a lot of routes at the grade, I feel comfortable saying this is the worst clipping stance I’ve ever experienced. Very spicy pulling rope for that 3rd bolt. Nov 22, 2023