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East Face Slab

WI3, Ice, 100 ft (30 m), Grade II,  Avg: 2.4 from 28 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Crawford Notch > 7. Mt Willard (… > 05. E Face - Upper

Description

This large ice slab is located on the upper corner of Mt. Willard between the South and East faces. It is most directly accessed by climbing Lower Hitchcock Gully and traversing left about 40 yards. It can also be accessed by traversing right from the top of Cinema Gully.

Location

Immediately to the left of the very distinctive gash of Upper Hitchcock Gully.

Protection

Ice screws. There are usually rappel anchors on trees at the top, but a few feet of "disposable" 7mm cord is not a bad idea, especially if you are looking to rap back to the ledge with a single 70m or 60m.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

East Face Slab (red)<br>
Cinema Gully (solid yellow)<br>
Hitchcock Gully (solid blue)<br>
Traverse to EFS (dotted lines)
[Hide Photo] East Face Slab (red) Cinema Gully (solid yellow) Hitchcock Gully (solid blue) Traverse to EFS (dotted lines)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Fischer
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] Can you bushwhack to the top of Mt Willard from the top of this climb? Mar 2, 2021
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  WI3
[Hide Comment] Yes you can, but it REALLY helps if you are familiar with the summer ROCK bushwhack / climber’s path from the top of climbs like “Night Climb for Two Knights” and/ or have a sense of where the winter path is from the top of Upper Hitchcock. Mar 2, 2021
Alex Fischer
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] I am not familiar with those bushwhacks/climber's paths...any tips besides just follow the path of least resistance up? Mar 3, 2021
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  WI3
[Hide Comment] If I'm lucky I'll be able to enter the photo i.d. # as a link. mountainproject.com/photo/1…

The top pitch of "A Night Climb for 2 Knights" is shown in yellow. Most of the E Face ice climbs end just off the right side of the photo. In winter this top pitch is usually just high angle snow, and you can see the flat basin at its base.

Either arrive in the basin, or walk 50-75 ft through the woods to this "basin". (depending on where your climb ends.) Note the steep bulging face to the right of the climb "Core Shot", that's your "landmark".

Climb the top pitch (yellow) to the trees. Now head up and right (once up the first steep 25-30 ft through the trees, move up and right at about a 45-degree angle) about 150-200 ft and you should intercept the path from Upper Hitchcock / path to the top. Good Tracking ! Mar 5, 2021