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East Face Slab
WI3,
Ice, 100 ft (30 m), Grade II,
Avg: 2.5 from 39
votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire
> NH Ice & Mixed
> - Crawford Notc…
> 7. Mt Willard (…
> 05. E Face - Upper
Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
This large ice slab is located on the upper corner of Mt. Willard between the South and East faces. It is most directly accessed by climbing Lower Hitchcock Gully and traversing left about 40 yards. It can also be accessed by traversing right from the top of
Cinema Gully.
Location
Immediately to the left of the very distinctive gash of Upper Hitchcock Gully.
Protection
Ice screws. There are usually rappel anchors on trees at the top, but a few feet of "disposable" 7mm cord is not a bad idea, especially if you are looking to rap back to the ledge with a single 70m or 60m.
![East Face Slab (red)<br>
Cinema Gully (solid yellow)<br>
Hitchcock Gully (solid blue)<br>
Traverse to EFS (dotted lines)]()
[Hide Photo] East Face Slab (red) Cinema Gully (solid yellow) Hitchcock Gully (solid blue) Traverse to EFS (dotted lines)
![Leading up the middle]()
[Hide Photo] Leading up the middle
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Albuquerque, NM
North Conway, NH
Albuquerque, NM
North Conway, NH
The top pitch of "A Night Climb for 2 Knights" is shown in yellow. Most of the E Face ice climbs end just off the right side of the photo. In winter this top pitch is usually just high angle snow, and you can see the flat basin at its base.
Either arrive in the basin, or walk 50-75 ft through the woods to this "basin". (depending on where your climb ends.) Note the steep bulging face to the right of the climb "Core Shot", that's your "landmark".
Climb the top pitch (yellow) to the trees. Now head up and right (once up the first steep 25-30 ft through the trees, move up and right at about a 45-degree angle) about 150-200 ft and you should intercept the path from Upper Hitchcock / path to the top. Good Tracking ! Mar 5, 2021