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Routes in Main Boulder

A La Torry V3 6A
Dark Side of the Moon V0 4 PG13
Dogs of War V4+ 6B+
Goodbye Blue Sky V9-10 7C+
Magic Tricks V7 7A+
Post War Dream V2 5+
See Emily Play V0 4
Sunny Day Syd V3 6A
Terminal Frost V6 7A
Young Lust V5 6C
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: unknown, pre-1997?
Page Views: 858 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kevin Hadfield on Jan 30, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the small right hand crescent hold and the obvious left hand about 8 feet left of Magic Tricks. Make a big move straight up with the left hand to a small crimp. Do a big move right to a pinch crimp, and move your left hand to the obvious crimp directly above that right hand crimp. Your right hand goes up to a hatchet blade, little crimp. The next left hand movement goes to a great left hand crimp rail, match on that, and then climb the last 10 feet of the climb on obvious, good holds.

Location

It is 8 feet left of Magic Tricks.

Protection

A couple of mash mats.

Photos

Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
It sure would be nice to be able to reach that right hand move from the ledge foot like in the video. Dec 9, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
Thanks, Kevin! Both Nick and I know folks who did this problem at disparate time frames since the late 1990s. However, nobody had decided to name it because of the prominent nature of the boulder in that area, as they are not sure that they were the FA. You picked a great name for it, and unless anyone who did it previously decides to change the name, Goodbye Blue Sky will remain the name. Regardless of the name, it's a great problem and a solid send. I hope this summer finds you well and in search of great problems to share. Jul 13, 2016
Kevin Hadfield
New Castle, CO
 
Kevin Hadfield   New Castle, CO
 
Thanks for the history lesson. The day that I first looked at this problem was the day I met you all out at this boulder. I had asked around and the best history I could get was that it was an abandoned Loomis project that had stirred up some controversy over alleged chipping of holds. If anyone's got a better/more relevant name, please share. Jul 13, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
This problem has been done and as early as 1997 (by locals to Junction and potentially prior to that) and later. This, being the most prominent boulder in the particular area, was largely developed at the time and after the R&I mini-guide in the mid-1990s by Luke Laeser and Ed Strang. The folks that I know that did this problem don't actually wish to take the FA (in text), as they even are not sure if they had the FA. Just for a small gesture on history, there used to be Gill arrows in the Texas Block region, near the Griddle Block, last photographed in the mid-1990s. Jul 9, 2016
Max Robbins  
 
One of the best lines in Unaweep. Dec 8, 2015
Kevin Hadfield
New Castle, CO
 
Kevin Hadfield   New Castle, CO
 
vimeo.com/147211606

Here is the FA footage... Sorry for the bad camera angle, this has been buried on my phone for almost a year. I leaned it up against a tree and missed half the climb. Nov 29, 2015
Bradley Mark Edwards
Grand Junction, CO
Bradley Mark Edwards   Grand Junction, CO  
Well done, dude! That's awesome! Jan 31, 2015
Nick Reecy    
Premium boulder problem. Awesome, Kevin! Jan 31, 2015