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Tahawas

WI3, Trad, Ice, 200 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 8 votes
FA: Tad Welch & Jamie Savage - 1987
New York > Adirondacks > Adirondack Ice… > D: Keene Valley… > Chapel Pond

Description

First pitch is a 6 meters face with thin ice in early season, then an easy thin slab to a tree belay (there's two), you can also avoid the first face by following a narrow ledge to the thin slab. the second pitch is very easy to an alpine snow section and then the second tree belay. The last pitch could be considered the crux (if you avoided the face at the bottom) with some thick WI3 ice. Climbing below a first party would be unwise since the route tends to funnel lots of debris.

Location

Approach past crystal ice tower and follow rock face until arriving at the Tahawas area containing many other routes.

Protection

Short screws on first pitch (maybe rock gear in early season) and any types on next two pitches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jonathan rappelling from the first anchor
[Hide Photo] Jonathan rappelling from the first anchor
Final bulge on pitch 2
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Photo by Skye Cudney
[Hide Photo] Final bulge on pitch 2 Photo by Skye Cudney
The start was extra spicy in early season conditions (12/18/17).
[Hide Photo] The start was extra spicy in early season conditions (12/18/17).
View from the top of the third pitch
[Hide Photo] View from the top of the third pitch
Jonathan Rappeling from the third pitch of Thaws WI3
[Hide Photo] Jonathan Rappeling from the third pitch of Thaws WI3
View of the last pitch with Jonathan belaying the second
[Hide Photo] View of the last pitch with Jonathan belaying the second