Type: Sport, 115 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: D. Mabe, 2009. FFA: Mark Anderson, 2015
Page Views: 3,086 total · 65/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jan 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Double Stout is a 35m route offering two different styles - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height-dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors. The rating of the route in its entirety may likely be 13+/14-.

A detailed write-up by Mark of his first free ascent, including pictures, may be found here.

Protection

Bring nearly 15 draws of varied lengths to run the route smoothly in its entirety.

A 70m ROPE is MANDATORY.

Photos

The only person to send it so far is 5'7"; if you are taller than that, you may really struggle. The roof beta from the FA is here (and is mesmerizing):

youtu.be/n9hoDJEzFq0?t=2m30s Apr 21, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Great video feed, Darren, and what a brilliant ascent by Mark Anderson. We had rapped this sector back in the '90s figuring it to be possible by stronger, better climbers than us. The heel hook sequence through the roof, and the ability to pull through on it is worth endless study. This is an object lesson on how to climb powerfully, creatively, and boldly. Must have been terrific just to witness it. Apr 23, 2015
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
@phil - awesome video. That's some bouldering World Cup beta there. Apr 23, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.14a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.14a
I want to add a 5th star to this route. Jun 1, 2015
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This is America! Save your Euro-grades for well... Europe. We originally thought 13c, but neither if us ever sent, so I guess our input isn’t really helpful anyway. Dec 24, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.14a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.14a
Most importantly, Corey, great to see you and your bro-crush enjoyed the route. What do YOU think it's rated? I happen to agree with Dave, even though he's being bit modest as he has one-hung the route several times. I also trust Mark can accurately determine ratings based on his long resume of 14s. Seems like there has only been a few redpoints including now yours and Ben's. I don't have as much experience at this level either, but I originally thought it would be somewhere between mid 13 and 14-. Dec 25, 2017