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Routes in Wall of the '90s

.30-06 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
7-Minute Abs S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Alone Time with my Banana S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
American Mustang S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Black and Tan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Casual Stone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Centerfold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curvaceous S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Double Stout S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Double Stout (w/ extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Foxy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goin' The Distance S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Harlot S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hellcat S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Hey Good Lookin' S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Interstellar Overdrive S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Leftover Stuff S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Litlle Kitten S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission Impossible S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Mission Overdrive S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Mission Plausible S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Porn Queen S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Recovery S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Reefer Madness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roadrunner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slender Babe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Slinky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stone Free S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Sweet Thing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ten-Digit Dialing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vixen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wet Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiled Horses T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Y2K S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 115 ft Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: D. Mabe 2009. FFA: Mark Anderson, 2015
Page Views: 2,510 total, 71/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jan 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Double Stout is a 35m route offering two different styles - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height-dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors. The rating of the route in its entirety may likely be 13+/14-.

A detailed write-up by Mark of his first free ascent, including pictures, may be found here.

Protection

Bring nearly 15 draws of varied lengths to run the route smoothly in its entirety.

A 70m ROPE is MANDATORY.

Photos

ChrisHau
5.14a
ChrisHau  
5.14a
Such a fantastic, improbable route and sequence. I felt totally giddy karate kicking my feet over my head with the ground a hundred feet below (and a little spooked at the thought of a headfirst fall).

For what it's worth, the bouldery roof still ends up being challenging if you can reach the slopey crimp at the lip (instead of campusing to it). The resulting cutting of feet is more violent and "twisty". I agree though, if you can't reach the first gaston in the roof, you're hosed.

Forget Rifle - next time I come to Colorado, I'm sticking to Clear Creek! Dec 24, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I want to add a 5th star to this route. Jun 1, 2015
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
@phil - awesome video. That's some bouldering World Cup beta there. Apr 23, 2015
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Great video feed, Darren, and what a brilliant ascent by Mark Anderson. We had rapped this sector back in the '90s figuring it to be possible by stronger, better climbers than us. The heel hook sequence through the roof, and the ability to pull through on it is worth endless study. This is an object lesson on how to climb powerfully, creatively, and boldly. Must have been terrific just to witness it. Apr 23, 2015
The only person to send it so far is 5'7"; if you are taller than that, you may really struggle. The roof beta from the FA is here (and is mesmerizing):

youtu.be/n9hoDJEzFq0?t=2m30s Apr 21, 2015