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The Ear

5.10a R, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
California > High Desert > Antelope Valley… > Devil's Punchbowl > S Area > Behind the Scenes
Access Issue: Bobcat Fire Closure in Effect Details

Description

This is the third route from the left. Just to the right of Into The Spotlight. The crux is between bolts 2 and 4. Pinching small nobs and for your feet tiny nobs and very thin edges. Looking up you can't see the anchors because they're just above the ear formation you stand on to clip the anchor.

Start on good stuff for your hands and feet until you clip the first bolt. Then follow the bolts up and left of the overhang to a good rest spot. Straight up to the large crack on the left where you will want some large cams 3 and 4 or run out the top. Maybe a 5.8 after all the bolts. After the last bolt is clipped it's still at least 40 feet.

This route like many others at the PB is badly in need of repair. Rusty bolts to rusty anchors. Very scetchy.

Location

3rd route from left. Just to the right of Into The Spotlight just to the left of Vulcans Ear. Shares an anchor with Vulcans Ear and Lucifers Tooth. The large crack that starts up high. Just to the right of a large obvious corner.

Protection

Large gear 1-4 cams. 4 bolts at the bottom where the crux is. 3 bolt anchor with standing room. Rap off.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route on the left is The Ear. Just left of Vulcans Ear.
[Hide Photo] The route on the left is The Ear. Just left of Vulcans Ear.