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Routes in Behind the Scenes

Ear, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Into the Spotlight S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Lucifers Tooth S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Taboo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vulcans Ear S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 124 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chad Parker on Jan 26, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the third route from the left. Just to the right of Into The Spotlight. The crux is between bolts 2 and 4. Pinching small nobs and for your feet tiny nobs and very thin edges. Looking up you can't see the anchors because they're just above the ear formation you stand on to clip the anchor.

Start on good stuff for your hands and feet until you clip the first bolt. Then follow the bolts up and left of the overhang to a good rest spot. Straight up to the large crack on the left where you will want some large cams 3 and 4 or run out the top. Maybe a 5.8 after all the bolts. After the last bolt is clipped it's still at least 40 feet.

This route like many others at the PB is badly in need of repair. Rusty bolts to rusty anchors. Very scetchy.

Location

3rd route from left. Just to the right of Into The Spotlight just to the left of Vulcans Ear. Shares an anchor with Vulcans Ear and Lucifers Tooth. The large crack that starts up high. Just to the right of a large obvious corner.

Protection

Large gear 1-4 cams. 4 bolts at the bottom where the crux is. 3 bolt anchor with standing room. Rap off.

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