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Routes in The Outer Circle Ampitheatre

Addiction to Friction S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boo Yah S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 367 total · 10/month
Shared By: Aaron Moses on Jan 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This short little route has a bit of a Napoleon complex. The bouldery moves start just off the deck and don't stop until you're at the anchor. Figure out your beta to pull through crimps, side slopers, jugs, and numerous heel-toe cams to reach the jug above the horizontal break. Now, if you have 6 ft of wingspan, you can dyno sideways into an iron cross. If you don't, things are going to get interesting. After latching the next jug, pull one more boulder problem on small crimps and crank a couple jugs to the anchor.

Location

The face to the left of the obvious lieback crack, Addiction to Friction

Protection

5 rusty bolts to a single bolt anchor. The anchor has a locking biner and I left a fixed draw on the last bolt to back up the anchor.

Photos

Man what a amazing climb! The climb sticks with you from the bottom to the top with perfectly sculpted holds that are just the perfect distance to make a climb! Aug 22, 2017
Charlie Cianciolo
Knoxville, TN
 
Charlie Cianciolo   Knoxville, TN
 
If you can't figure out the beta for the bottom boulder problem, keep trying! It doesn't go any harder than V4, but it sure feels hard with the wrong foot sequence. Great route! Aug 20, 2017
Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Taylor Roy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
I am 5'8" with a +1" reach and was able to keep my feet on the wall when I did the lateral move. It is a huge move, but you don't need to be 6' tall to do this one. Intense little route! Jul 26, 2015