PRINT: Rock Climb Judon't Wanna Vogue, Boulder

Judon't Wanna Vogue

5.14c, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Joe Mills
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Industrial Wall

Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.

Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.

Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.

Description

This is a LINK UP!

This is the longest and most difficult route at the Industrial Wall. Start on Judon't Wanna Go There, and climb into Vogue. This swaps 3 bolts of 12a to start Vogue for 8 bolts of 13+.

It is a brain child of a few bored, strong climbers. Jump was the original start to Vogue, but the start was moved up the slab and left to ease the difficulty and make the line more direct before Vogue's FFA by Tommy Caldwell. Andy Raether revisited Jump as a start to Vogue but upped the ante and added a direct 13+ variation to Jump, one day hoping to link it into Vogue to climb the full extent of the Industrial Wall cave.

If you're bored, have sent Vogue, and want a 120 foot, mega power-endurance fest, give it a go. It's the only route of its kind in Colorado outside of the Rifle area.

Protection

Bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Squibb
Boulder, CO

Nice job, Joe! Actually, I always intended to use the Jump start for Vogue, but Jump got bolted before I got to Vogue, so I just made Vogue a separate line. I did add the upper variation to ease the grade, but I couldn't get up that either and was left with no other choice but to give it to Tommy. Glad to see my initial 24 year old vision realized! Jan 25, 2015