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Routes in Cerro Quemado

Abrasiva S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Culo de Moncy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dulce Jiba S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
El ArĂȘte S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
El Culto S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
El Tributo S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Freno de Mano T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hijo de Gato S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13
Jump Like a F--King Monkey S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Kotex de Ayer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
LNES S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
La Competencia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Vertical T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Visita del Halycon S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lomo Asado S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Minnie Mouse Arete S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mosqueton Embrujado S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Nenas Del Desierto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off-trail Offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Poc a Poc S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sala de Maternidad TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scorpion Belt Buckle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tete's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unkown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Varon de Neesha S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Zapato Al Ajo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Miguel Arango
Page Views: 218 total · 5/month
Shared By: rusty pitoune on Jan 23, 2015
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Description

This is a fun route, a short hike past the chocolotada wall to the left, looking from Canton Chicua.

The route starts below the crack splits open with about 10 feet of straightforward face-climbing. After which you can climb up the crack to the top using finger jams and, as it widens, hand jams.

The angle of the route is slightly positive except for a short section that may just over hang.

I've read elsewhere this is a 5.11a climb but I reckon it's closer to 5.10.

Location

Located a short hike past the chocolotada wall to the left, looking from Canton Chicua. It's not part of the other sections of cerro quemado and thus slightly hard to find, and off the evangelical trash trail, which is nice too.

Protection

There are two bolts at the top of the route that have mad rock hangers which you could rap straight off. It's possible to top rope this route but getting to the anchors requires a pretty hairy approach across a sharp and questionable basalt flake.

Nuts leading to small cams work to protect this crack.

Photos

rusty pitoune
  5.11a
rusty pitoune  
  5.11a
crack takes good finger size pro all the way up Nov 5, 2016

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