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Two Flew over the Cookoo's Nest

M7+, Sport, Mixed, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Todd Tumulo, Josh Hoeschen FFA Eddie Phay
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Anchorage & S C… > Eklutna Canyon
Access Issue: The Eklutna Canyon drainage is open to climbing but is on private property belonging to Ekultna Incorporated. Details

Description

Sustained steep hooks and tool cams in a right trending crack/seam. Starts in an alcove with pods.

Location

500 yards past TJ Swan on the north side of the river. Left route of the two bolted lines.

Protection

Bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

brody zafa
Anchorage, AK
  M7-8
[Hide Comment] Great, hard route for anyone looking to get a pump. the crack has cleaned out well, and pick placements have improved drastically with traffic. Be prepared to be on your tools for most of it; the feet are very bad.

I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt, as you should with all eklutna dry tool routes.

I believe Todd Tumolo and Josh Hoeschen have the FA of this route. Dec 3, 2017
C Williams
Los Anchorage
  M7+
[Hide Comment] There is a little drama regarding the FA on this route. TT and JH had placed all but the bottom 2 bolts when Eddie wandered in and sent (snaked). That being said, credit should be given to the equipping party. Good line too! Dec 3, 2017
Pablo Excalibur
Anchorage, AK
[Hide Comment] Chris, credit should be given fairly, FA - TT & JH, FFA - EP Dec 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] I agree with Pablo. Drama or no drama credit should be given. Dec 19, 2017