Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: Jim Waugh, Rick Donnelly
Page Views: 194 total · 4/month
Shared By: sean peters on Jan 22, 2015
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

This route is long and pumpy. Although it looks like the crux is down low the difficulty increases as you pass the first bolt. The first bolt is around 20 feet up the pocketed face with the potential for a bad landing if you miss the clip. You can place gear in the pockets to limit the runouts between bolts. We had plans to lead this route but after seeing the bolt spacing, the slight overhanging nature and some loose stuff midway up the face we opted for a top rope. It was probably our wisest decision that day--it felt hard, harder than most 5.10's on similar rock in the area.

Location

Look for the first bolt about 20 feet up, the fourth bolt can not be seen from the ground. There are anchor bolts on the top and you can rappel from here or continue to the true summit via Wee Chimney route. One rope only.

Protection

There are four bolts on the face and lots of pockets for small cams or tricams to fiddle in for further protection.

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