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> *Phoenix Areas
> Superstition Mo…
> Nosepicker Pinnacles
Bombs Away
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 3 from 2
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Routes in Nosepicker Pinnacles
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Bombs Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Kleenex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Superstition Curley var. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wee Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Waugh, Rick Donnelly |
| Page Views: | 180 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | sean peters on Jan 22, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
This route is long and pumpy. Although it looks like the crux is down low the difficulty increases as you pass the first bolt. The first bolt is around 20 feet up the pocketed face with the potential for a bad landing if you miss the clip. You can place gear in the pockets to limit the runouts between bolts. We had plans to lead this route but after seeing the bolt spacing, the slight overhanging nature and some loose stuff midway up the face we opted for a top rope. It was probably our wisest decision that day--it felt hard, harder than most 5.10's on similar rock in the area.
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