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Routes in Nosepicker Pinnacles

Bombs Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kleenex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Superstition Curley var. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wee Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: Bill Betcher, Larry Treiber
Page Views: 193 total, 5/month
Shared By: sean peters on Jan 22, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Climb the obvious chimney and find protection in the pockets for the first 70 feet. If you have carried a #6 there is a placement for it, continue to beneath chockstone and do an awkward move or two in order to mount the stone. There is one bolt above the chockstone and with a long sling you can continue to the summit in one pitch or belay here. Climb nice handcrack and short face to summit

Location

The start is one the west face of the pinnacle, very obvious. Rappel of the main summit and do a 5.0 move to gain access to lower summit where there are two anchor bolts that allow for a one rope rappel to the base. If you rappel from the true summit you will want two ropes. From the highest point you can see the anchors below--these happen to be the anchors for another route Bombs Away.

Protection

There is one bolt on the route, small cams to #6. We always bring the #6 and it came in handy for this route.

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