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Routes in Upper Foothill (The Hideout)

Biome T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fern Dust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fiddleneck Aréte T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Frond, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Indian Paintbrush T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Silver Carpet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Alex Bury, Maxwell Miller (GU 2015)
Page Views: 135 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alex Bury on Jan 19, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Park near the top of Signal Street. Details

Description

Make your own belay at the base of the prominent aréte.
Steep moves off the belay lead to more aréte liebacking and a classic top out.

Top Roping:
A top rope can easily be rigged by following the trail through the meadow and up the third class gully. Follow the path a short ways; a trail branching off right will lead to the two bolt anchor.

Location

The obvious aréte, high above the meadow.
For the lead, approach via the bouldering area. Follow a faint trail up a ramp to reach the start.

Protection

Single cams: #(.4-2)
Midsize cams for the belay at the base. There are two bolts for the belay on top.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.10
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.10
Dev. Notes:
'The Frond' was done onsight, ground-up. Natural features allowed the route to go bolt-free.
It would've been easy to rap down the route, clean it, and then lead it. But with the route's striking aspect and the adventurous tradition of the area, a ground-up attempt was in order. Plus it's a short route, and I wanted to get the most out of it.
Opportunities for gear at the start were encouraging but prospects above were unknown. I had my drill on a tagline in case there wasn't gear up high. Things were very grainy, making for a wild lead. After pushing through the crux moves, I was excited to find gear higher up.
The route's in great shape now and features some quality stone.
Jan 19, 2015

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