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The Littoral Zone

WI3, Trad, Ice, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: First Winter Ascent Unknown
New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - The Kanc Ice > 2. Rainbow Slabs - Wi…

Description

P1 - Climb easily up the low-angle slab 75-80 feet (top section may be snow-on-rock) to the first overlap. Climb over this ("technical crux", especially in thin ice) and on to gradually thicker ice. 150-170 ft WI 3- / 3

P2 - Continue up WI 3 (actually was easier than it looked from below, something of an "ice anomaly"!) and trend right to a triple-trunked oak tree belay. 160-170 ft WI 3-

P3 (optional) a pitch of low-angle slab leads up and slightly left to the high-point of the slab in this area and a large pine tree with fixed anchor. 100 ft WI 2+ / 3-
From the top of P3, Rap from this tree back to the triple-trunked oak, or (probably BETTER) traverse to climber's left and down about 150-200 feet to the rap station at the top of "Livin Easy".

Descent - There are a some "issues" with the possible raps.

A) The triple-trunked oak is set as a rap station and Two 70m ropes should just about reach the ground, BUT pulling them through the low angle snow could present a serious problem.

B) The summer descent is from a double bolt anchor down on the top of the Perfect Wave slab BUT it will be covered in snow AND there's 10-12 feet of snow-on-rock-slab downclimbing to reach it. For the record, from the triple-trunked-oak the dbl bolts are about 20 ft to climber's right, and then down 20 feet, the last 10-12 feet being on snow-over-rock. From the bolts make a single rope rap directly down to the bolt/chains at the Silver Surfer belay (or the Perfect Wave flake) then a dbl rope rap to the ground.

C) We moved over the 20 feet, then down a bit and rapped off two smallish trees that were about 3-4 feet apart, to the double-bolt anchor on Silver Surfer's comfortable belay ledge, about 110-115 ft (35M) below (you could also reach the semi-hanging anchor on Perfect Wave, about 100 ft. down) From here (either station) a two-rope rap gets you to the ground.

Location

Directly above where the climber's path reaches the cliff.

Protection

The usual gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P2 - Littoral Zone
[Hide Photo] P2 - Littoral Zone
"Screwing" at the 1st Overlap on Littoral Zone / Rubberneck...bring your 10cm's if you got 'em
[Hide Photo] "Screwing" at the 1st Overlap on Littoral Zone / Rubberneck...bring your 10cm's if you got 'em
Rapping Down to Silver Surfer's belay anchor. Note: rope was around 2 trees 3-4 ft apart
[Hide Photo] Rapping Down to Silver Surfer's belay anchor. Note: rope was around 2 trees 3-4 ft apart
Thin Ice at 1st Overlap - Littoral Zone
[Hide Photo] Thin Ice at 1st Overlap - Littoral Zone
At the 1st Overlap - Littoral Zone
[Hide Photo] At the 1st Overlap - Littoral Zone
Littoral Zone, descent possibilities. The "triple-trunked oak" is the tree furthest left.
[Hide Photo] Littoral Zone, descent possibilities. The "triple-trunked oak" is the tree furthest left.