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Routes in Eagles Nest

Bromancing The Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Out For Blood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Chris Weidner, Jon Glassberg January 8, 2015
Page Views: 1,477 total · 37/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jan 16, 2015
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route is located on the east face of the East Peak of Bridge Mountain and can be seen from the 13-mile loop road between Icebox and Juniper Canyons. The first six pitches climb the wide crack system visible on the left side of the steepest part of the multi-colored wall. Park in a small pullout on the right, less than a mile before the Pine Creek parking area and directly below the face.

The easiest approach ascends the middle of three broad gullies beneath this side of Bridge Mt. (the middle gully meets the face just right of the prominent buttress marking the right side of the wall). Hike up this gully until close to the wall then navigate a short but dense section of scrub oak until beneath the route. Two bolted anchors were found in the first three pitches, and a bail anchor about 12 meters up the fourth pitch.

P1: Begin in a bushy, right-leaning crack below a tree about 15 meters up (alternatively, traverse a sandy face from the left [5.8] to avoid the initial vegetation). Climb up past a chimney and more bushes to a two-bolt anchor. 5.6, 35m

P2: Climb a varnished flare to a bushy ledge 15m above the belay (can combine P1 and 2) then bushwhack 10 meters left to belay beneath a crack splitting the face. *Do not continue straight up the attractive hand crack in a left-facing corner above the ledge. 5.8, 25m

P3: Head up the crack and face to a beautiful flare that ends at a two-bolt anchor. 5.9, 20m

P4: Quest up the gaping chimney, which narrows to a squeeze then a tricky bulge and finally a varnished finger and hand crack. Belay beneath a wide crack in a roof (wide cams at belay). 5.10c, 25m

P5: Navigate the roof with helpful face holds then squirm upward. When the chimney peters out step right over a pillar of white rock to a small stance at a varnished hand crack. The first ascensionists belayed here (35m) but itÂ’s better to continue another 15m (easy) to a large flat area beneath another chimney. 5.9, 50m

P6: Battle the steep slot to reach easier crack climbing to the top of the buttress. 5.10a, 40m

P7: Walk and scramble up and right about 30 meters then downclimb a short corner to flat ground. 5.2, 35m

P8: Ascend the bushy weakness, trending left. Then squeeze up a varnished chimney to belay at a chockstone in a tight alcove beneath a roof. 5.9, 35m

P9: Climb delicately out the wide roof crack using fragile face holds and jams, then up a crack to a slab. Traverse right across the slab and into a cave to belay. 5.10d, 22m

P10: Squeeze up the smooth, splitter chimney on the left to a bushy ledge at its top. 5.10a, 25m

P11: Step left around a yucca to an easy crack and rounded arete. Climb past a final, short chimney on the left to the top of the ridge. 5.5, 50m

Location

To descend, stay as close to the ridge crest as possible, careful not to veer into Icebox Canyon. The first ascent team made one single-rope rappel off a tree (perhaps not necessary) then followed cairns (in the dark) down a delightfully improbable path that was never harder than 4th class. Either traverse the long hillside back to the base of the route or continue straight down a gully to the loop road (2-3 hours).

Protection

1ea: #1 Metolius - #6 Camalot; medium-large nuts
2ea: #1,#2,#3 Camalots

Photos

Josh Janes    
"Park in a small pullout on the right, less than a mile before the Juniper Canyon parking lot and directly below the face"

Is this a typo that should read "...before the Pine Creek parking lot..."? Feb 9, 2015
You're right Josh, Pine Creek parking area. I'll change that in the text.
Thanks! Feb 23, 2015
Rudeboy
North Las Vegas, Nevada
Rudeboy   North Las Vegas, Nevada
A little bit of history on this route:

I believe it was sometime in 2012 when Jim Mercer, Cody Brown, and myself decided we were going to crank this tempting looking route. Upon arrival at the base we noticed several bolts and the anchor you described that is left about where the huge chimney begins. The bolts looked like the may have been there a few years. Even discouraged by this we pressed onward hoping the chimney and upper cracks would be virgin. We started the route as described by the author. Once in the chimney we observed yet another single unnecessary bolt near a 2" perfect crack and a knifeblade about 20' up on the right side crack. After talking alot of smack about it all I lowered Jim off of a purple TCU that we bootied from an undocumented rap station in Ice Box Canyon! That was about 10' above the knifeblade. We then descended. Did you guys find the cam? Jun 22, 2015
Thanks for the history Rudeboy! We found a fixed pin and/or a fixed nut. I don't recall seeing a cam up there. Jun 23, 2015
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
why does this route only have 2 stars? It looks rad! Feb 20, 2017

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