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Routes in Southeast Face

Dawn Wall Free T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
East Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hamas Fights For Freedom A5+
Mescalito T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
Native Son 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
New Dawn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
North America Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Scorched Earth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 PG13
Shortest Straw, The A4-
South Seas T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Tangerine Trip 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Tribal Rite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Virginia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Zenyatta Mondatta A3+
Zodiac C3
Type: Trad, 2500 ft, 32 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, January 2015
Page Views: 26,385 total · 665/month
Shared By: Brian S on Jan 16, 2015 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

One of the hardest big wall free climbs in the world. Stacked pitches of 13s and 14s.

Protection

Full big wall rack. Beaks required.

Photos

Brian S
 
Brian S  
 
Interactive 3D topo Jan 16, 2015
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Grade V? Already getting downgraded, I like it!

Post a little more beta and I'm there Jan 16, 2015
karl schmidt
Idyllwild, CA
karl schmidt   Idyllwild, CA
Lol how can you 4 star it if you've never climbed it. That'd be like judging a taste test contest from looks alone lol Jan 28, 2015
I very much agree with you Karl. Just because it was an awesome accomplishment doesn't mean anyone can star. Maybe you should do the first repeat Brian S. Also, isn't this technically a free climb of the route Mescalito on the Dawn Wall and therefore should be placed there? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Jan 29, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
Karl and Benson, FYI what you're seeing is a technical requirement of Mountain Project routes. The submitter is prompted to choose a star rating before saving it.

On the other hand, a route that pushes the limits of worldwide climbing difficulty in this way will certainly be considered classic, at least for the first decade or two (ha). Feb 5, 2015
Jacek Czyz
Chicago, Summit CO; PL
  Easy 5th
Jacek Czyz   Chicago, Summit CO; PL
  Easy 5th
Dawn Wall aka Wall of the Early Morning Light still is aid route. What Tommy and Kevin did is Dawn Wall Free or Mescalito Free or similar. Feb 14, 2015
Fixing ropes top to bottom on El Cap is really bad style.Bolting on rappel , drilling cracks for drilled angles, chipping holds,working top down,leaving ropes and portaledges fixed for three months every year for how many years? -all of these things are really bad style and should not be tolerated on El Cap or on any Yosemite Big Wall.El Cap deserves more respect.Top down climbing is for posers. Mar 3, 2015
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
5.14c
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
5.14c
14+ is a stretch. i thought the crux was 14c at the hardest. cool route though. Jul 5, 2015
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
Yeah, 14+ is grade-inflation. And I thought it might get dark out before I finished. Jul 5, 2015
Hanson Smith
Boulder, CO
Hanson Smith   Boulder, CO
Jim Beyer, as far as I have heard there was no chipping or drilling cracks. Fixing the wall and spending months up there every year for years was what was required to push big wall free standards to the next level. Now the route stands proud, with minimal trace left by Mr. Caldwell and Mr. Jorgeson. Can the same be said for your routes? Is drilling a trench for a head in the Fishers good style? Is purposeful ambiguity about the tactics used in a first ascent good style?

mountainproject.com/v/intif… Jul 22, 2015
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
I love that this already has 4 stars and there is already an argument about grade inflation. Excellent job Mountain Project Community! Sep 4, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
"minimal trace left by Mr. Caldwell and Mr. Jorgeson"

Precisely how many bolts were added to this route, in order to go free? Also my other question is, could this be climbed from the bottom, in one continuous push, without falls. In other words, if you take a lead fall, or use aid or whatever, you go back to the very bottom and start over. Oct 19, 2015
Russ Keane, 35 bolts were added to this route the Majority to replace old ones. They specifically placed beaks instead of bolts to keep the integrity of the route, at the cost of future flash attempts. Feb 2, 2016
lol at all the idiots on here providing their completely unfounded opinions and quality ratings haha Mar 7, 2017

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