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Routes in Southeast Face

Dawn Wall Free T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Ephemeron T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Hamas Fights For Freedom A5+
Mescalito T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
Native Son 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
New Dawn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
North America Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3
Scorched Earth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 PG13
Shortest Straw, The A4-
South Seas T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Tangerine Trip 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Tribal Rite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Virginia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Zenyatta Mondatta A3+
Zodiac C3
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Type: Trad, 2500 ft, 32 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, January 2015
Page Views: 37,030 total · 792/month
Shared By: Brian S on Jan 16, 2015 with updates from James Leavy
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

One of the hardest big wall free climbs in the world. Stacked pitches of 13s and 14s.

Protection

Full big wall rack. Beaks required.

Photos

Brian S
Truckee, CA
  5.14c
Brian S   Truckee, CA
  5.14c
Interactive 3D topo Jan 16, 2015
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Grade V? Already getting downgraded, I like it!

Post a little more beta and I'm there Jan 16, 2015
karl schmidt
Idyllwild, CA
karl schmidt   Idyllwild, CA
Lol how can you 4 star it if you've never climbed it. That'd be like judging a taste test contest from looks alone lol Jan 28, 2015
I very much agree with you Karl. Just because it was an awesome accomplishment doesn't mean anyone can star. Maybe you should do the first repeat Brian S. Also, isn't this technically a free climb of the route Mescalito on the Dawn Wall and therefore should be placed there? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Jan 29, 2015
Jacek Czyz
Chicago, Summit CO; PL
 
Jacek Czyz   Chicago, Summit CO; PL
 
Dawn Wall aka Wall of the Early Morning Light still is aid route. What Tommy and Kevin did is Dawn Wall Free or Mescalito Free or similar. Feb 14, 2015
Fixing ropes top to bottom on El Cap is really bad style.Bolting on rappel , drilling cracks for drilled angles, chipping holds,working top down,leaving ropes and portaledges fixed for three months every year for how many years? -all of these things are really bad style and should not be tolerated on El Cap or on any Yosemite Big Wall.El Cap deserves more respect.Top down climbing is for posers. Mar 3, 2015
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
5.14c
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
5.14c
14+ is a stretch. i thought the crux was 14c at the hardest. cool route though. Jul 5, 2015
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
Yeah, 14+ is grade-inflation. And I thought it might get dark out before I finished. Jul 5, 2015
Hanson Smith
Boulder, CO
Hanson Smith   Boulder, CO
Jim Beyer, as far as I have heard there was no chipping or drilling cracks. Fixing the wall and spending months up there every year for years was what was required to push big wall free standards to the next level. Now the route stands proud, with minimal trace left by Mr. Caldwell and Mr. Jorgeson. Can the same be said for your routes? Is drilling a trench for a head in the Fishers good style? Is purposeful ambiguity about the tactics used in a first ascent good style?

mountainproject.com/v/intif… Jul 22, 2015
Brandon.Phillips
Portola, CA
Brandon.Phillips   Portola, CA
I love that this already has 4 stars and there is already an argument about grade inflation. Excellent job Mountain Project Community! Sep 4, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
"minimal trace left by Mr. Caldwell and Mr. Jorgeson"

Precisely how many bolts were added to this route, in order to go free? Also my other question is, could this be climbed from the bottom, in one continuous push, without falls. In other words, if you take a lead fall, or use aid or whatever, you go back to the very bottom and start over. Oct 19, 2015
Russ Keane, 35 bolts were added to this route the Majority to replace old ones. They specifically placed beaks instead of bolts to keep the integrity of the route, at the cost of future flash attempts. Feb 2, 2016
Robbie Brown
the road
  5.14d
Robbie Brown   the road
  5.14d
Pretty amusing to see all the arguing going on here.
For those who are curious, this route Climbs more than just New Dawn or Mescalito.
It starts on Mescalito and climbs a number of pitches up to anchorage ledge where it follows Adrift, an aid route with only 1 repeat. At that point it moves back onto Mescalito through the molar traverse. After the traverse there are 3 new pitches bolted by Tommy that hadn’t been climbed before. After that the climb joins New Dawn for a couple pitches then ventures out onto the face left of the aid line for some runout 13d. Then it Crosses back over the New Dawn and up to wino tower. After that there are some new pitches and some that are on a route called Space which is an A4 aid route that is rarely done.
This is a new route that shares many pitches with existing routes. It has shared pitches with so many routes and so many new pitches that Tommy chose to name it the Dawn Wall for its location on El Cap (the section that gets sun first thing in the morning) instead of free Mescalito or Free New Dawn. FA Tommy Caldwell FFA Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
4 Stars just for the effort, history, and position. Any benchmark or famous route are in some way or another classic. I’ve been on this part of the wall and it’s spectacular. Jun 13, 2018

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