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Casper

5.7, Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Bill Forrest, Gary Garbert, 1965
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Superstition Mo… > Sisyphus Pinnacles
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

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Looking around corner of the first pitch on Casper.  Pitch 2 begins up a short, loose ramp from this stance.
[Hide Photo] Looking around corner of the first pitch on Casper. Pitch 2 begins up a short, loose ramp from this stance.

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sean peters
  5.7
[Hide Comment] The first pitch of Casper begins on the east side of the formation. One must mount a loose boulder to locate a somewhat hidden crack just left of boulder. The start of this pitch is loose, the crack is alright (5.7) and the traverse out of the crack is fairly loose as well.

Tippy-toe/traverse over more loose stone (north) and continue around corner (west) to a nice ledge for the beginning of pitch 2. We found one piton at the start of this pitch--the same type we found on Sisyphus. Pitch 2 is difficult and scary. Very loose start, up very loose, crumbly crack and onto easier terrain to the summit.

No anchors, slings, were discovered on the summit (2015). Rap off nut/bolt. One rope gets you down.

Rappel back to start of pitch 2, throw ropes around to the south and finish off rappel. Down climb back north to packs. Probably a better and safer way off but it worked alright for us. Watch for lots of falling rock.

Both Sisyphus and Casper felt like that had not been climbed for decades. I would say the rock on both of these formations rate as some of the worst in the Superstitions but also feel the most adventurous....except for the routes on the east side of Weavers Needle. Jan 14, 2015