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Routes in Knob Lock

JW T WI3+
Magic Line WI4 M5
Too Tight for Pleasure WI4 M3
Unexpected Pleasure T WI4+
Type: Mixed, Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 225 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jan 14, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

This is a great line -- two pitches of [mostly] well-protected mixed climbing. It takes a left-leaning, straight line from bottom to top of the tallest section of rock.

There are two starts depending on conditions. The left side of the depression is the most direct, but typically has fewer opportunities for gear. The right side climbs past a cedar (used for gear), but is more thrashy.

P1: Climb up the depression which becomes a right-facing corner. Up the corner to a hanging cedar. Go left around the cedar to a ledge, then step right to make a belay behind a large flake (or in the ice to the left).

P2: Go up a left-leaning crack (or the ice on the face to its left) to where it becomes a shallow right-facing corner. Go to the top of the corner, then step left and continue up ice in a left-facing corner to the top.

A single 200' rappel returns to the base of the route.

There's been confusion about this route and Backsheesh, which has the same start. Backsheesh leaves the depression just a little ways up and goes left onto the face, then up ledges and cedars to the same belay. The second pitch goes way up and right onto an ice-covered face, which is unfortunately rare to form.

Location

Begin below a depression in the center of the main face. The forest is open here, and is directly below the tallest part of the cliff.

Protection

Trad rack to 2", plus ice screws (stubbies usually).

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