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Routes in Petra Area

Bedouin Life T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Faisal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Res von Känel, 17 November 2006
Page Views: 158 total, 4/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jan 13, 2015
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Description

This climb is on its own "mountain" and ascends Jebel Alzrb from the very featured north spur. It is a very aesthetic climb with a cruxy move of awkward 5.10d (6b) or C0, but otherwise is a very enjoyable easy moderately rated "mountain climb" for the area. Originally mentioned in AAJ 2008 as a 7 pitch climb, it can be climbed in 4 long pitches, but beware of rope drag.

Cross a stream bed and a blind slot canyon to the base of the route.

Pitch #1: Start a short ways from the stream bed up some easy slabs to an overhang protected by a bolt, then surpass another roof on the right to a nice big ledge. 5.6, 55m.

Pitch #2: Climb a rib-like vein of rock past another bolt directly through a strenuous overhang and continue past some natural threads up wonderfully sculpted rock to a tree and belay. 5.10d or 5.5, CO, 30m.

Pitch #3: Climb up to a ledge and traverse right about 10m and go up the line of least resistance past many holes and great solid sculpted rock using natural threads for protection. A final roof guards the belay (thread). 5.7, 50m.

Pitch #4: From the thread belay continue up very featured rock (face climbing) passing another roof to more threads and a bolt to a prominent tree and belay. 5.7, 60m.

Other descents may be possible, but we scrambled down to the south via a narrow descent gully and a couple of rappels to the ground.

Location

Approach via the little valley where Little Petra is situated, their are Bedouin encampments and sheep herders everywhere and most will know the mountain by its name Jebel Alzrb. It is a wonderful formation with a striking blunt North Facing arete. Using mostly natural protection, the climb is far removed from any tourist locations/ruins.

From the summit, an initial easy down scramble of the far side leads to a series of bolted and thread rappels. We socialized with and encountered very friendly local Bedouin on both sides of the mountain and found it difficult to leave and return to our car after completing the descent!!

Protection

QDs for a few bolts, various size runners for threads, and a set of Nuts and Camalots.

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