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Routes in East Face - Upper

Cleft, The WI2+
Damsel in Distress 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4
East Face Slab WI3
East Face Slab Right WI3+
Read Between The Lines T WI4
Rear Window T WI4
Upper Hitchcock Gully T WI3-
Type: Trad, Ice, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Allain Comeau, Paul Durand, Michael Medvin and Mark Meche 1/21/96
Page Views: 532 total, 15/month
Shared By: Jeremy A on Jan 12, 2015 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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This is a great route that offers a challenge if you want to pass time while waiting for Upper Hitchcock. Depending on conditions it is tough to leave the ground as the first 30 feet is usually thin and deceiving. Most parties will do this in 2 pitches. Climb the first half to a shelf and build an anchor (Ice is not present in some years). Continue up a steep corner stemming or what ever may work for the conditions. Exit and use a tree anchor.


This route is located in the corner 20' left of Upper Hitchcock. Climb Lower Hitchcock Gulley or Left Hand Monkey Wrench. Continue left to Upper Hitchcock. You can easily hike up and right eventually meeting up with the Upper Hitchcock summit trail. Follow trail to the AMC or rappel via lower Hitchcock.


Screws. (2) 60 meter ropes will get you to the ground off the rappel anchor (Tree with rings).


Ben Townsend  
The WI4 rating apparently comes from a steep, optional final pitch above the corner. If done as described here, without the final pitch, the route is more like 3+. Jan 30, 2017