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Excuse Me Señora, Give Me la Hora
5.11d,
Trad, 460 ft (139 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
FA: Axel von Müller, Agustin Unsain, Mannuel Rapoport, and Lucas Köpcke 1997-99
International
> S America
> Argentina
> Rio Negro
> San Carlos de B…
> Frey
> Campanile Esloveno
Description
Rolo calls this "the most striking line in all of Campanille in an unforgettable setting" and I couldn't agree more! Excuse me Señora give me la Hora follows immaculate stone up the North West arete of Campanille for 4 engaging pitches.
P1 (11d 45m): The crux pitch of the route starts in a narrowing seam with some sporty climbing getting to the first bolt. Continue past this rap anchor, pull the crux and enjoy the steep patina above. Save a #1 camalot for the top of the pitch and belay at 2 bolts at the base of a corner.
P2 (10 30m): Climb the corner above the belay, clip a bolt, and step left into the solid, but very hard to protect hand crack... Ya, you'll see what I mean. When the crack ends chase widely spaced bolts slightly left then straight up to another bolted belay.
P3 (11- 32m): A beauty of a pitch! Climb the stellar bolted arete past a roof and up to another bolted belay on a large ledge. Some sections will hold your attention more than others. Not much gear is needed on this pitch, maybe bring just a set of nuts.
P4 (8 20m): Step left from the anchor and climb huge huecos that reconvene with a couple bolts on the right arete again to the top.
Descent: Rap the route with a single 70m (bring cord to back up tat or better yet some quick links!) or Rap Imagínate with a single 70m if no one is coming up that route.
Protection
light rack from Micro nuts - #2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3: Dave Montgomery picking his way up a beautiful face pitch. Rock quality is A-one.
[Hide Photo] Lisa following the steep patina on the top of P1