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Routes in Disi

Bedouin Camel Boys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Full Moon Waning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hole To Hole T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimalist, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Morning After T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Res von Känel and James Garrett, 15 November 2006
Page Views: 310 total · 7/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jan 9, 2015
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Description

We spotted Al Hasani while driving the short distance to Disi from Wadi Rum. It is a very easy approach until perhaps negotiating the sand dune just below the wall. Plan on 10 minutes!! The rock is stellar. On the FA, very few bolts were placed, but returning the next year, we had both marveled at the sustained quality and knew it deserved better fixed protection.

In 2007 we climbed it again and equipped it. The first round it was 5.10 R/X. Though still not a sport climb, protection now feels adequate...It also gave us an opportunity to meet up with the Bedouin Camel Boys again!!

During the FA, a group of three Bedouin boys on their camels gathered at the base and watched us for much of the day. As we descended, they prepared tea for us on a makeshift fire. They insisted we mount their camels and ride the short distance to our camp. It was one of those meetings in one's life where very little was spoken, but much was communicated.

Pitch #1: Steep face holds to a daunting roof and a few bolts lead to another short roof and a right facing curving dihedral (finger and hand crack climbing) to a nice ledge. 5.10a, 50m.

Pitch #2: From the left side of the ledge, pass a fixed piton and follow a system to a roof and a bolt and climb up and right up weaknesses to a ledge under a pronounced overhang. "Lunch Ledge". 5.8, 50m.

Pitch #3: Go left at "The Edge" and climb a slab by section past a bulgy roof and past two bolts to a two bolt belay ledge. Off to the right is the original thread belay/variation pitch. 5.9, 45m. NOTE: Around the corner from this belay is the direct descent (Rappel 2x50m) route.

Pitch #4: Climb straight up the striking arete on wonderful patina and face holds (7 bolts) and then right to a two bolt belay ledge. 5.9+, 30m.

Pitch #5: Wow! Res originally led this pitch without bolts and I shuddered in amazement at the belay. Now climb past 6 (Thank God) bolts up the final awesome headwall pitch to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 50m.

Scramble to the very top of the formation for phenomenal views.

Rappel to the alcove at the third belay and then to the ground from there.

Location

The magnificent Al Hasani formation is situated about a 10 minute walk along the wall from Obeid's Bedouin Camp and around the corner towards The Camp Of Lawrence and the tiny settlement of Sig Um Tawagi. Looking for a bolt low down marks the beginning of the route if you are able to recognize the formation from the photo.

Descent is easily done by rappelling with double ropes to the "alcove" at the top of Pitch #3, and then two airy long rappels twice to the ground from there. Long rappels, but casual!!

Protection

Despite the addition of bolts by us on our second ascent, expect to need and use a solid set of Nuts and Camalots with possibly doubles on finger sizes.
The bolts should be in good shape, but rappels are necessary for the descent. It is like being on the top of a tower...no obvious walk off.

Photos

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